A Preppy wardrobe essential is of course the Oxford Cloth Buttondown (OCBD) Shirt. It defines authenticity: it functions in business situations when new and for gardening and field work when well worn.
Specifics to look for include:
- The front placket should have at least seven buttons.
- Blue is the most classic color. White, pink, and sometimes yellow are the only other options. University Stripe versions include blue, green, red, pink and again, sometimes yellow.
- 100% combed Pima cotton (No polyester). Wrinkle-resistant finishes should be reserved for travel only, if at all.
- Shirts should have a front chest pocket (which can be monogrammed) unless you are Ralph Lauren and substitute a polo player.
- The fit should be roomy (No Trim Fit)
- The shirt should have a split shoulder yoke, and back box pleat.
- The tail should be sized generously enough to stay tucked in, and be properly rounded.
- Sleeves are better with gauntlet buttons.
- There should be single-button barrel cuffs (but a second button can be tucked away next to it for better fit adjustment).
- Look for single-needle stitching with double stitched shoulder seams.
Identifying the right oxford shirt can seem a bit nuanced. But it is worth it, as the right garment will be in service for years, perhaps even decades.
See also Ralph Lauren Women’s Oxford Shirts: Classic Fit vs. Skinny Fit.
19 comments:
As for gauntlet buttons, Brooks' iconic OCBD doesn't have these. Its sublime collar roll trumps the sleeve button qualification in my opinion.
Excellent point! I completely agree with you about the collar roll. I also think the feel of their cotton is sublime. I have always considered the lack of gauntlet buttons a slight flaw, and therefore I cycle amongst Ralph Lauren, J. Press and Brooks Brothers when purchasing oxford shirts for my family. (including myself!)
I side with the BB guys. The cut of the shirt renders the gauntlet button superfluous and the elegance of freedom from the PRL logo way more than compensates. I don't mind the logo on Ralph's sport shirts so much, but a dress shirt? Meh.
You know the story of how BB trademarked "polo" as their button down collar a century ago, and Ralph can't put the word on his BDs. Thus, just "Ralph Lauren" and the horse on his. Fun.
Would suggest that a proper collar roll is the sine qua non.
The proper collar roll should be bell shaped IMO. For some reason, many are convex, and always stand out as seeming to be a bit jarring.
Only two that always seem to work are BB gotta iron, and Mercer.
Superb pint on the full cut. Trim cuts seem to be somewhat out of place even if the wearer is quite thin.
Would respectfully agree with those suggesting that the gauntlet button is a distraction. The ultimate in prep always seems to start with simplicity, and function. The gauntlet button would appear to be neither.
I appreciate all of the comments.
I certainly agree with the “simplicity and function” mantra. Having said that, I find gauntlet buttons to be genuinely purposeful.
I specifically find the “peeking out” of skin without one to be a visual distraction.
And if one wants to roll up their sleeves just a short bit (to get work done) the gauntlet button serves to keep the sleeves from “bouncing about” too much. Although if they are rolled up further (but not over the elbow, obviously), the gauntlet button does need to be unbuttoned and in this situation would be superfluous.
And the BB cut does not preclude the gauntlet button. The size of the sleeve plackets (½ inch longer, and just over ¼ inch narrower on the BB shirts compared to the RL shirts) exposes more skin when moving, even when compared to an unfastened RL oxford.
(Although I do agree with the “no logo on the dress shirt” comment. I have personally never found the RL logo to be overly bothersome, despite its being ubiquitous. And I must confess, I have sent my husband out to keynote on more than one occasion with a polo-player on his shirt (although it is usually hidden by his jacket.))
Having said that, as I mentioned in the previous comment, I am not at all “anti” BB oxfords. I agreed with the collar roll comments, and as I mentioned, the fabric, and I might also add the hue of the blue, are all better.
Given only two changes have ever been made to the BB oxford shirt in its 100 plus year history, one should be hesitant to advise a third. Although I am sure many a feather was ruffled by the breast pocket addition back in the 60s!
In total, to me, the lack of a gauntlet button just looks unfinished, but is in no way a deal breaker. (We are now purchasing them for the 4th BB generation.)
How do you feel about the flap on the chest pocket of the J. Press Oxford?
@Hilton - I have always been positively predisposed to their flaps. I also like the flaps on my husband's older Willis & Geiger oxfords.
Thanks, I bought an Oxford in blue with a flap pocket at their F&F sale.
Sorry, but I forgot to ask if you feel that the flap makes it more appropriate for casual wear or will it work with a tie? Thanks again.
@Hilton - IMO, I believe they work as well with a jacket and tie as they do casually. (I might stay away from pairing them with a suit.)
10-4 , madam. Thank you.
I enjoyed this recounting of the Press transaction with your father. Can we take the discrete house-account method of billing as a general etiquette pointer to avoid being explicit about money whenever possible?
Can OCBD be tasteful in navy?
Muffy, I've checked the J Press website and can't find a light blue OCBD; only grey, khaki and olive. Am I missing something?
@Tim - Navy OCBD - No. :) I found this J. Press OCBD with a pocket flap in Blue.
Thanks Muffy. Was worried that that OCBD was too formal for day-to-day use, but will take your recommendation. And I will now discard my navy OCBD and replace it with that light blue one.
This might belong in the LL Bean Right Track/Wrong Track post, but anyway:
Dear Mr. Willis,
Thank you for contacting L.L. Bean about our Oxford Cloth Shirts.
You are correct sir we do not have in stock any Oxford Cloth shirts that are not wrinkle-resistant. If we can be of any further assistance please feel free to contact us.
We appreciate your business here at L.L. Bean Mr. Willis and hope that you have a Happy and Heathy New Year.
Sincerely,
Pam M.
L.L.Bean Customer Service
800-441-5713
llbean.com
Oh dear.
Glad to see this thread resurrected. The OCBD is part of my uniform. Some added points to your otherwise superbly comprehensive discussion from a fellow shirt nerd:
Mercer (which should be a topic in itself) as well as the prior version of the BB each have 6 placket buttons. I, too, prefer 7. This, however, means that the second button is only 1/2" higher. The difference is invisible if the shirt is worn fully buttoned (with a tie) and negligible if worn open collar (especially is adequately starched).
Say what you will about RL (and I have), no one has better preppy shirt stripings, in addition to the standard uni-stripe. I bet these are often custom woven in batches only a large company could support.
I am plus/minus regarding gauntlet button. An old Land's End catalog said that they help avoid "unsightly gapping." This shouldn't happen if the wrist and sleeve are properly fit. They are unnecessary if the OCBD is worn with a coat, are one more thing to be broken by a laundry, and I'm told can sometimes catch on a desk edge. That said, I agree they are a nice detail.
I'm not a fan of the RL logo (except reluctantly on polos) and find pockets more useful than being a human billboard. I believe the RL OCBD also has soft unlined cuffs and collars, just like the Mercer (though without the characteristic collar roll), which I really think add to its comfort.
@Anonymous 7:12 - I find myself nodding in agreement with all that you say - most articulate! And so true about Mercer shirts. David Mercer and I had a good conversation about the number of placket buttons!
Muffy, what are the best shirts to wear with a bowtie? Are sport shirts acceptable, or dress shirts only? Oxfords or poplins?
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