Simply put, the ambitions of a marketing department do not a preppy store make.
The DNA of preppiness is forged through the crucible of authenticity. Specifically, companies go through rapid feedback cycles around successes or failures in authentic environments. For example:
- L.L. Bean’s focus used to be on outfitting outdoorsmen (sports). When customers came out of the woods and back to Leon Leonwood Bean with common complaints about their gear, improvements were made quickly based on function.
- Lillys, back in the day, were designed by a young Palm Beach matron for young Palm Beach matrons.
- J.Press’ survival depended on their Ivy League clientele (thus their flagship store was, and still is, in New Haven).
- Leather Man Ltd.’s headquarters remains in Essex, Connecticut, one the sailing capitols of the world.
- Patagonia is staffed by outdoor enthusiasts who test their own products (the company famously lets these employees off when the surf is up, and is fiercely committed to the environment).
- There is Barbour (see entry).
- Paul Sperry needed to not slip on the deck of his boat.
- Even Lands’ End was born out of the need to outfit sailors.
- Meanwhile Ralph Lauren, perhaps the exception here, is simply more competent, consistent and visionary than his competitors. This is especially appreciated given how few decent offerings there are for women.
Thimble Island house, a few months before used in the J. Crew shoot.
In fact, whenever a company lets a marketing department call the shots based on demographic research and short-term whims of the fashion industry, you end up with “collections” like LL Bean Signature.
At best, J. Crew is "Preppy lite". At worst, it is to preppy what Pepperidge Farm is to a real farm. J. Crew is far more committed to trendiness than preppiness. Anyone can make a pair of khakis or a white polo shirt for a season or two. But those items are more often filler than loved.
See also Preppy Clothes: Loved New and Old
24 comments:
Spot on!
Wow. I certainly didn't expect a whole post as a response to my comment, however I must again thank you. I suppose I can be glad that I usually only buy the most basic items there, such as a few t shirts over the years and a pair of chino shorts or two. That "filler" remark quite relieved me. Also, your remark on J. Crew being "preppy lite" resounds with me and my feeling all along that any clothes from the brand must be scrutinized before any purchase is made.
Thanks again.
Hi Ryan,
Thank you so much for your very specific comments and very interesting questions. Your comments are great to read and thought provoking.
Muffy,
I'm glad you think so. I'm so happy that I found your blog and I can't wait for your next post.
Oh, I almost forgot. Could you perhaps do a post on what a prep should wear when its uncomfortably hot (its about 105 degrees in Baltimore, near where I live). Not to mention the winter, when inside my school blasts the heat to the point where sweaters are just too much. What I would give to move to Cape Cod. Anyway, thanks again!
Just discovered your blog and am enjoying it. But I think you’re mistaken about Barbour. They ARE changing. My observations from viewing their website are borne out by this article:
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/barbour-is-born-again-777545.html
So what used to be an outfitter that catered to UK farmers, shooters, and other outdoors enthusiasts is now a fashion house. And most Barbour products are made in Eastern Europe now.
We have a closet full of Barbour coats in our house. But the new stuff isn’t the same thing. Sad.
Scott
Interesting post. It makes me realize that I know precious little about the origins of J. Crew - i.e., what was their intended market? I remember their catalogs of 20+ years ago and the preppy-styled catalog photos. Perhaps they were always aimed at a younger high school and college market.
Thank you for the great article. I wish you would send it on to L.L. Bean! I was aware of this trend as my latest Liddesdale, Keeperwear Quilt and my husband's Winter Wellington were all made in Indonesia, but it filled in some information. (And it is somewhat ironic that my husband's two most recent Burberry outerwear purchases were garments made in the US) When thinking collectively of these companies (and this chart, as well as all of the content on my blog, is obviously, just one perspective), and taking into account the economic realities facing these companies, I was trying to see who has handled it well. I too bristle when the term "fashion" is injected, but I believe Barbour has done a better job than others (like Burberry and Pringle) when developing lines in attempts to lure younger customers.
At L.L. Bean, I now shop almost exclusively for myself from the Men's department, and although I have bought a lot of Lillys in my life, I can barely find a single item that I want today.
If Barbour falls too far, we can always look at Schöffel or see what else Farlows is offering!
I love your blog Muffy. There is just so much useful information on here; never stop writing!
Can Asians be preppy too? I'm chinese and I really like the classic style. I just hate the Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Aeropostale, American Eagle, North Face, Ugg stuff that kids my age wear nowdays.
Also, what do you think of the clothes people wear on the Sartorialist?
Miss Coco,
Thank you so much! Anyone can be preppy! I agree with your take on the companies that you list. And I really enjoy the Sartorialist. The photos are fabulous and the clothing ensembles are endlessly interesting. I am glad you could visit.
I totally agree! The last many years I've had a hard time fining anything in Jcrew that isn't skimy (in both fabric weight and style) and trendy.
Muffy,
Great post, however, I disagree about J.Crew not being preppy. J.Crew is a modern spin on classic styles for the new generation of preppies. I do agree that some (few) items are made of flimsy materials and purchases need to be scrutinized, but I feel that for women, there are few classic clothing stores, and even fewer catering to the young.
Within this past year, J.Crew has been great about providing both sexes with goods and clothing from reputable, specialized companies. Also, J.Crew has quite a few classic pieces which have been supplied in stores for many seasons (such as the "Jackie Cardigan").
I do hope you understand that J.Crew is now a go-to store for many young preppies and trendy people alike, since the variety appeals to people of all styles. Although you (and many others) may not like it, J.Crew will be here to stay.
Thank you,
Alyssa
Alas Muffy,
I found your blog too late. When I started my new job (which pays much better)I redid my wardrobe. Good: I gave to Good Will all of my cheap, trendy, ill- fitting clothes from Target and Wal-Mart. Bad: I began my new wardrobe with J. Crew Jackie Sweater Sets, Khaki pants/ skirts, Wool Pencil Skirts, Cotton Oxfords and Cashmere Cardigans. ( I also like wearing solid, fitted l/s cotton t-shirts with khaki pants or skirts and ballet flats for a casual look.)I found at J. Crew I could consistently find small sizes. Now that I have found your blog, I'm a little embarrassed. Oh well, my wardrobe is still small so I can get more ideas from you on where to shop for the classic preppy look. I love looking simple, clean and classy. I am just learning what preppy really is, so I look forward to reading your blog. Thanks for the great advice.
Gwenda
i believe you are confusing style with trendiness. j.crew consistently delivers beautifully made clothes that harken to classically tailored staples that women and men have been wearing for years. while i appreciate "prep" for the affect it has had on fashion, it is companies like j.crew that are able to take the clean lines and simple colors of preppy style and make it wearable for all people. because not everyone can pull off shapeless khakis and oversized oxford shirts. some of us want the world to know we have waists. and are women.
@kate - Thanks for your comment. I think it's great that J. Crew works for you and your waist! If you love J. Crew, let me also suggest to you L.L. Bean Signature and Gant.
just to set the record straight, J.Crew was started in the eighties to compete with Polo Ralph Lauren but at lower prices. In its heart it is a true preppy store, and in fact partners with brands such as Sperry Topsider which you have classified as true preppy. In '97 J.Crew was lacking and thus started selling more runway inspired pieces to draw in more fashion driven clients, but the basics are still carried and sell well. Cable Knit, Khakis, School Boy Blazers, Oxford Shoes, and Button Down Shirts are seasonal staples.
@claire - I agree that J. Crew was and is derivative. I received their very first catalog and even made a few purchases from it: A Navy and White striped T-shirt with a neck opening that was much too small and a pair of great fitting khakis, but with a zipper that was crooked. Since, they have strayed so far from their attempt to copy Ralph Lauren, but perhaps we can give them historical credit for being the first "mall prep" pure play. It will be interesting if their current upscaling of the Men's clothes with branded vendors is successful. They may become a useful aggregator.
Dont we all have a collection of critter cords in our closets? If something works for you dont be ashamed that it came from JC.
Personally I dont think they qualify as a preppy company but certainly there are some very preppy pieces to be found there (tho not as many as say 20 years ago).
New to your blog...found it through fellow blogger Summer is a Verb. Enjoy your spunky take on faux prep...couldn't agree more...next time I'm around SX I'll think of you!
Alyssa, the best part of something being a classic is how rarely it needs a "modern spin." It's lack of "modernity" is usually what makes is "classic." That's what "classic" means. And your comment couldn't have shown more clearly the degree to which J. Crew is a knock-off bin disguised as a clothing store chain.
If I wear it, it IS prep. Nuff said.
Regarding Ralph Lauren, preppy, and patriotism: They are one of few companies that will ship to an APO address. They sent me a new wallet in Iraq in one week, earning my business for life. They still have the feel of a small business.
I would add prep school cool in the face of adversity to the prep qualities noted by Muffy
For the New York City work - basics, coords and suit-pants, J. Crew's classic fit is far more comfortable than the Brooks Brothers Clark and a bit more trimmed ( and consequently more professional ) looking than LL Bean or Lands End. I've found myself buying from there frequently only for their classic fit pants, because I have found that much of their stuff is a bit too trendy. It's pretty hard to mess up a pair of blue or gray wool pants or some wide-wale coords, and I think they still do a great job for the staples.
I must say, since this post in 2010, this brand has shot straight downhill. The quality of the fabric in several gifts I have received recently is poor, and the sizing is amusing (we are slender people), especially if you look at the men's suits in the catalog.
a nice post, but there is no way to categorize Ralph Lauren and J. Crew differently -- depending on how strict you are, they must either both be preppy or both be non-preppy. I would say neither is preppy, unless prep is evaluated so broadly that it should be a pejorative. RL is pricier than J. Crew, and more aspirational, but it is still selling a put-on image -- at least as much as or more than J. Crew is.
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