I love the Christmas aesthetic through the lens of a sailing town. Even though the 23 degree weather required a few extra layers, the intimate scale of the historic architecture and boatyard activity mandated a walk.
With my Hanna long johns for extra warmth
Rebuilding the docks
I broke in my newest iteration of L.L. Bean Camp Mocs
The famous inn, which opened for business in 1776
The white post/boxwood/gravel combination is hard to beat
Stark decorations
I love the first ice on the water
Beats the mall

22 comments:
Great post! I used to live in Essex. It's such a fantastic little town. Do you ever go to the Eliza B sales on the weekends?
The gris is nice but i love the chowder at the seal - chris
@xx - Absolutely! Although I have been going to the Leather Man/ Eliza B. factory since I was a teenager.
@K - Nothing beats The Black Seal! The Gris picture was for one certain reader.
How lovely! Looks like the weather is nicer up there. My corner of Virginia hasn't cracked freezing all week!
Love the new Bean Mocs. I have a pair, but found that I had to order a 9.5 instead of the size 8 that I usually wear. They really run small, especially with a thick wool sock.
I love the intimate feeling of smaller towns where everyone seems to know eachother. Reminds me a little of Mystic, Conn. One of my favorite places on earth.
@John - It's bloody cold up here! Fortunately I like to wear so many layers of clothing at once.
@Susan - I always have a terrible time with L.L. Bean footwear and fit. With the Camp Mocs, I sized up from a 9 to a 9 1/2, and also got them in wide to accommodate my wool ragg socks.
The Griswold Inn is one of my all time favorites. The Black Seal is a neat place too. Their clear broth clam chowder is unique and very tasty too!
Hey Muffy - do have any insights on prospective sources of traditional cable knit wool boot socks with contrasting toes and heels? Have been scouring the country to no avail! Thanks in advance.
Old School Prep
Muffy,
You're the best! thanks for sharing your picture of the Gris! I hear the interior of the Gris is also quite impressive with lots of vintage and wonderful nautical paintings!
Can't beat the the LL Beam Camp Mocs! Wear mine regularly.
Beats the mall is an understatement...well said!
When in Essex make sure to stop at The Christmas Barn. They have a great selection of nautical ornaments!
@Old - For socks you might try Farlows, and j.mosby directed me to Corgi. (Both have Royal Warrants.) And now you've got me hungry for chowder.
@j.mosby - ! My favorite room in which to eat at the Gris is the Library, especially in the winter with a fire going. Next time I'll try to get some interior pictures.
@Kate - There has been a virulent strain of "mall prep" that has re-surged recently, and worth countering!
@Kristen - I've never been, but next time we're down, I definitely will. I do remember when I was little, our yearly treks to the Pink Sleigh on 153.
Been lurking on your blog for some time but finally feel comfortable enough to start commenting.
I always find it interesting the pride some of us feel when we get 'Bean' merchandise that fits well and proper.
Things just seem 'right' when that is the case....such as the photo you took of your boat shoes or the ones Giuseppe took of his new LL Bean Blucher mocs (which I feel pride and excitement in each year I get a new pair!) Enjoy reading your blog...even here from Lexington.....Ky. :-)
I absolutely love Essex! My family and I usually visit right after Thanksgiving! I just love walking and looking at all the traditional New England homes.
Love this post, thank you for taking us through!
Your photo of The Gris may have been for someone else, but it made me smile to see it. It's been too long since I visited Essex.
Love your blog, Muffy! We have family right nearby, in New London and Guilford, and we always love visiting their beautiful coastal towns. Living right outside of Boston, we have access to the ocean, but don't think of taking advantage in the winter. You look well prepared for the brisk weather! I think we might be getting some snow this weekend here in New England, hopefully!
Fantastic! I have always misspelled it as "the Griz"; way it is pronounced.
Photo brings back wonderful memories of a stop on the way east, when they let us keep our 70 pound golden in the room with us. Even though he was better groomed and behaved than some of their guests, they finally adopted a "no pet" policy. Don't blame them at all.
Alden's is a neat store. Griz dining room reeks atmosphere, with nautical art that most diners don't notice. Drive trhough neighboring Lyme is fun.
Had a friend who moored at boat yard; was always fun to watch the railroad bridge raised so that mast could clear. Train schedule in cockpit, to see when trains were coming through.
When Kathryn Hepburn lived nearby, she used to cut in to the front of the line at small convenience store, no one paid any attention.
Take the kids to train track & put a penny on the track. They had a flattened penny momento that they loved.
One of a kind spot! Thank you so much for the good memories!
@Jerry - So glad you commented. Each time I get a new pair of Camp Mocs or Bluchers, it reminds me of the transition from an old dog to a new puppy.
@PP - I so agree! You also choose such a great time of year to visit. When the town is stripped of both leaves and tourists, the lovely bones of the town can truly shine.
@Shaundra - Thank you. Essex is always a pleasure.
@Carole - Sounds like it is time for a visit! And probably very little will have changed.
@Liane - Thank you! Yes, I grew up in that area, and my husband grew up in the Boston area (Concord and Weston). There is something especially snappy about the water in the winter. (And those extra layers allowed us to stay out a good long time with wind chills in the teens.)
@Wharf Rat - Thank you for such marvelous details! Agree with all you say; Alden's; the art; Lyme; the bridge. And did you notice the nice V70 right out in front?
Thank you. I completely missed the V 70, until I magnified the photo. PERFECT!
Under trivia, the neat little park in the center of town with the gazebo is a jewel. Dog friendly. Town puts pick up papers there, and dog owners always do. Very civilized.
Superb! This article is greatly appreciated.
I love the way you use your Bean boat tote as your purse....I do that a lot too...year round...
My sister-in-law use to live in Stonington and I loved visiting her there ....another charming little coastal town in CT.. : )
@Whaf Rat - Nice point about the little park. Thought the V70 might amuse you.
@TP&G - I use the totes all the time, and fill them with my older Vera accessories. Stonington is lovely, and our destination on our next trek.
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