Whole Wheat Pancakes and Local Maple Syrup

Few things are more wonderful than buying locally grown food. There are Farmer's Markets and CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture), as well as farm stands. It is almost painful to buy certain ingredients, such as honey, milk and maple syrup, from large grocery chains.

One reason to do this is that the foods are minimally processed, making them often more flavorful and nutritious. And there are also broader economic and cultural reasons. By eliminating the middle man, farmers do not have to share their profits with a third party. It also allows for relationships to develop between the food providers and their customers. For these reasons and more, it is useful to minimize the "food miles" accumulated by what we eat.

A Local Sugar House

Here is a recipe I have evolved over the years for Whole Wheat Pancakes:

• 1 cup organic whole wheat flour
• 1/4 cup unprocessed wheat bran
• 4 Tablespoons raw wheat germ
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 Tablespoon Turbinado sugar
• 1 3/4 cups whole milk
• 1 egg
• 1 Tablespoon canola oil

As well as local maple syrup, I use raw milk from a local dairy farm and our own organic, free range eggs. Then, I just put a small amount of butter a hot pan before each scoop of pancake batter goes in.

Four Classic Items That Aren't Anymore (A Review of L.L. Bean's Women's Spring 2010 )

From top to bottom: Bean's Washed Oxford Shirt; Bean's Premium Double L Polo; Double L Cotton Sweaters

One might think there are quite a few classic items in the L.L.Bean Spring Women's 2010 catalog. Long-time shoppers might especially believe this, thinking nothing of re-ordering their seemingly trusty staples from years past. However, many items have been redesigned in the last few years And these changes are not good.

Here are four items that epitomize this trend. All four items look like they should exactly fit the classic bill. But they all now have many subtle, and not so subtle, things that knock them from their previous "classic" mantle.

Premium Double L Long Sleeve Polos (a review): L.L. Bean had offered a perfectly good (but not perfect) polo shirt, The Original Double L Polo. But then, in Spring 2009, they made changes and are now calling it the Premium Double L Polo.

On first glance it seems fine. But upon wearing, one immediately notices many of the changes. Despite claiming they do not shrink, they lose an inch in length after the first washing.

The fabric, which has now been treated for wrinkles and fading, pilling and shrinking, doesn't even feel like cotton anymore. It feels more like a synthetic mesh. (The softness of the cotton was one of the highlights of the Original Double L Polo.)

They have made the overall fit too tight, even for a fairly thin person. This is especially true in the sleeves.

On top of that, old styling problems have not been fixed. The collar is still too 1/4 inch too tall and one inch too long. The cuffs are still hemmed (not knit as they give the Men's). The tennis tail is still wrong, with the back needing to be longer than the front. The top edge of the collar still has somewhat of a raised texture all around the edge; it should be plain as possible. The placket, thankfully, has only two buttons, but it is still too narrow.

The style is in the details - the collar (in green) is 1/4 inch too tall compared to the ideal Ralph Lauren Polo

Bright Navy is the best color. Bright Elm is acceptable, if a little muddy (Glen Green would have been much better). They also should have added Warm Pink to the line-up.

Double L Cotton Cable Crewneck Sweater (a review):

First, the good news. The cables are a good width and they did a nice job with the fabric and weave.

Now the mitigating news. The neck opening should have been smaller so a collar can look better under it. They made the sweater too long, especially since it appears to be more narrow through the chest (amazingly, the chest measurement in this season's Extra Large is the same as the chest measurement of a Medium from a few years back).

Colors this season are somewhat better, but the Deep Pink would have been even better in Warm Pink. The Navy, at least is excellent.

Bean's Classic Chinos (a review):

These chinos are not very classic. L.L. Bean had close to perfect chinos which sat slightly below the waist with good deep pockets that were quite flattering. Then (in Spring 2009 ) they altered the style, kept the name, and made them worse. They now sit below the waist with a short zipper and have shallow pockets.

They still offer them in the great Stone. But the only other khaki color is Deep Khaki which is too dark.

(They do make what looks to be tasteful, although on the "cute" side, embroidered shorts and skirts. Both are available in an attractive Navy and Glen Green.)

These are the now discontinued Classic Chinos, with the slightly below-the-waist fit, which should be brought back.

Cotton Oxford Shirt (a review):

The best thing one can say about this shirt is that they got the blue right in the stripe with the color China Blue. Also they do have an appropriate number of buttons on the front placket (7). The fabric is right, and does not have the treated feel.

They also got a few things wrong. Actually, they got six things wrong.

1. It is missing both a split back yoke and a back box pleat. It is not uncommon to have one of these missing but rarely both. They did put a locker-loop on which is a nice touch, but not enough.

2. The sleeves are too short. Further, the cuffs do not fasten tightly enough (the version before the recent re-design had two button cuffs). They do have gauntlet buttons, but the sleeve plackets are too short.

3. The overall body length is too short, and the tails need to have a deeper curve.

4. They should have just left off the front chest pocket. Women's shirts have less space on the chest for pockets anyway and this pocket shape is much too square.

5. The pointed ends of the collar are also too square. They should have more of a point.

6. The buttons need be just a tad smaller.

Conclusion

L.L. Bean has the passionate following of many. But they risk all of that when they add new items outside of their heritage, phase out their classics, and most frustrating, subvert the quality and details in many of their existing favorites.

Men's Ties

Collections from Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Vineyard Vines

Given the multitude of ties available, it can be comforting to narrow down the options to just a few sources of slip stitched, properly lined, pure silk neckwear.

• The most old school purveyer of neckwear stateside is J.Press. Originating in New Haven, with other stores in Cambridge, New York and Washington, D.C., and serving the Ivy League, they offer the correct pure silk neckwear. Regimental; Emblematic; Foulard; Polka dots; Madras and of course, their famous Bowties.
  
  
• No one does the motif ties better than Vineyard Vines. Offered in fabulous colors and overly represented in Presidential elections.
  
  
• Brooks Brothers has perhaps the largest collection, just stick to the Repp ties to be safe.
  
  
• And if one wishes to reach across the pond to procure their neckware, London based Smart Turnout has an ambitious collection of Military, Old School, UK University, US University, and US Military ties.
  
  

The Women's Ralph Lauren Cotton Cable Sweater

There are a great many cable knit sweaters available but none are as consistently on target as the ones offered by Ralph Lauren. The dyes are rich and the hues are right, the cables are of the correct width and the neck opening is not oversized. The cut is generous enough without looking bulky, while lacking that tight and trendy look.

My Ralph Lauren Cable Knits

The arms are long enough for just the right amount to turn back and the sweep is just snug enough as not to hang. Good colors include: French Navy; Nantucket Pink; Kayak Green; Baldwin Blue; and Parrot Pink. 

Best. Chamois Shirt. Ever.

L.L. Bean Men's Chamois Shirt Review

For eighty years the best Men's chamois shirt has been made by L.L. Bean. It is made of thick Portuguese flannel (7.50z fabric), generous tails, roomy fit and angled flap pockets. It is as soft as it is tough. The stand out colors are Navy, Hunter, Red and Heritage Khaki. Like other classics, it looks great old as well as new.

Other companies try, but none equal or surpass. Finally, this shirt is a great bargain at $34.50.

The Women's Art of Wearing Men's Clothes

Given the sad state of Women's clothing, women with a penchant for classic colors and styles often have to delve into the Men's section. Here are some thoughts.

• Unfortunately, this technique favors the taller and thinner. Women often find when they wear men's clothing, they have a bit of extra room in the shoulders. If one has to "size up," this can throw the entire look.

• Jackets are the easiest items to cross-over. Sweaters also work, provided they have enough heft (otherwise they hang).

• It is usually necessary to stand up the collars and roll back the cuffs. Fortunately, this is often a great look.
  

• Shirts are trickier - the tails are too long, and tucking them in adds bulk. (This is especially sad given how great so many Men's shirts are.)

See also L.L. Bean Chamois Shirt; Filson...Since 1897...

L.L. Bean's Men's Chukar Jacket and L.L. Bean Men's Ragg Sweater

Best. Clogs. Ever.

My Hanna Andersson's Swedish Clogs

Hanna Andersson has been offering their authentic clogs for women and children for years. Handcrafted in Sweden, they feature an alderwood base, leather uppers in their famous brilliant colors, (as well as Navy) and a rubber base. For the purist, they remain the most, and perhaps only, classic clog.

Caps (Baseball Style): The Ten Commandments

Caps of baseball styling are nearly ubiquitous. But as with golden retrievers, the differences between a great one and the rest are subtle, nuanced, and critical.

Specifics to look for include:

1. Caps should be low-profile with unstructured front panels; not the foam fan structured hats favored by large farm equipment operators.
   
2. The bill (also called a visor) should be preshaped; not flat. The bill should always be worn at a right angle; never slanting upwards.
   

3. There should be six fabric panels; no mesh, with matching cloth undervisor.
   
4. The obvious fabric is 100% cotton twill. Cotton canvas qualifies as does wool; synthetics do not.
   
5. Preferably, the cap should be a single color. Ideal colors are Navy, White, Khaki, Hunter and at times a bright Pink. The combination of Hunter Green and Khaki and Navy and Khaki are exceptions and acceptable.
6. Any logo needs to be embroidered, not printed. It goes without saying that the logo be tasteful.
   
7. They should be fastened with a cloth tuckaway back-strap or with a leather strap and a brass buckle and grommet. No plastic tabs.
   
8. It should be fastened snugly. Nothing looks worse than a loose fitting caps.
   
9. Women should never wear their hair down when wearing a baseball-style cap. It should always be pulled back. Ponytails should be under the bottom edge of the cap - never through the hole in the back.
   
10. It should have tonal sewn eyelets and buttons.A clip is always a nice feature, especially for sailing.

While to many this list may seem overwhelming and even trivial, to others it will provide a framework to help understand why some people wearing some hats look the way they do.

Oxford Shirts: The Ten Commandments

A Preppy wardrobe essential is of course the Oxford Cloth Buttondown (OCBD) Shirt. It defines authenticity: it functions in business situations when new and for gardening and field work when well worn.
Specifics to look for include:

1. The front placket should have at least seven buttons.
2. Blue is the most classic color. White, pink, and sometimes yellow are the only other options. University Stripe versions include blue, green, red, pink and again, sometimes yellow.
3. 100% combed Pima cotton (No polyester). Wrinkle-resistant finishes should be reserved for travel only, if at all.
4. Shirts should have a front chest pocket (which can be monogrammed) unless you are Ralph Lauren and substitute a polo player.
5. The fit should be roomy (No Trim Fit)
6. The shirt should have a split shoulder yoke, and back box pleat.
7. The tail should be sized generously enough to stay tucked in, and be properly rounded.
8. Sleeves are better with gauntlet buttons.
9. There should be single-button barrel cuffs (but a second button can be tucked away next to it for better fit adjustment).
10. Look for single-needle stitching with double stitched shoulder seams.

Identifying the right oxford shirt can seem a bit nuanced. But it is worth it, as the right garment will be in service for years, perhaps even decades.
See also Ralph Lauren Women’s Oxford Shirts: Classic Fit vs. Skinny Fit.

Khakis: The Ten Commandments

My Father and his Khakis, Windjammers, Camden, Maine,1964

The quintessential pair of pants, for men or women, are of course khakis.

Vendors, knowing "khaki" is often referred to as a color, now use the term "chinos" which are offered in various shades of Khaki. Technically, however, khaki refers to either the style of trousers originally worn by British Troops in India or the color.

Buying any kind of pants is always a more personal purchase than a sweater or a shirt. The fit is much trickier to get right. Add to that the constant tweaking or outright discontinuation of styles by vendors, and finding good khakis is a continual challenge.

Given that, here are some rules to consider before even trying on a pair:

1. No pleats. (Never mind how they look, they also add an immediate five pounds.)
2. Straight leg, never boot-cut (or low-rise, obviously).
3. Cuffed or uncuffed (with a one to a one and a half inch hem), but not a "jean hem."
4. Not too dark. Stone is fine for women, Light Khaki, Field Khaki or Khaki is good for all. Dark Khaki or British Khaki is never good for pants (and don't even think about Olive).
5. On-seam pockets in the front (which need to be deep enough) and two button through pockets in the back (men's and women's).
6. Avoid cropped versions for women; they seldom look right.
7. Always 100% cotton twill; never a thread of polyester. (Cotton canvas, following these guidelines, can qualify.)
8. No elastic in the waist.
9. Stay away from "wrinkle resistant" versions. They wear prematurely at the bottom of the hem.
10. No cargo pockets.

Finally, one might need flannel-lined khakis. They are perfect for New England winters. And again, they are easy to find for men, but quite difficult for women.

For classic khakis, see Bill's Khakis or Jack Donnelly Khakis.

---

Note: I received this kind email on August 11, 2010:

Hi Muffy,

I enjoyed reading your feature on classic khakis. I feel you outlined perfectly the essentials of a great pair of khakis. I really appreciate you referring your readers to Jack Donnelly as a classic khaki.

Sincerely,

Gregg Donnelly

--

Jack Donnelly

www.jackdonnellykhakis.com

The Dinghy Test

There is a need for formal and business wear in life. But as much clothing as possible should pass "The Dinghy Test."

The rules are simple. Can the clothes you wear enable you - even encourage you - to successfully get in and out of a dinghy? Can they allow the range of motions required? Can your shoes provide traction? Can the clothes recover gracefully from less than successful attempts of entrance, egress or transport?

For example, this means no "dry clean only" garments. Every garment should be able to withstand washing; by hand if necessary, machine washing preferably.

In ability and temperament, we become more like the clothes we choose to wear. So it makes sense to choose authentic garments that represent both who we are and who we want to be.

Stripes Go Everywhere

Ralph Lauren Skinny Polo

Stripes are a critical part of a classic aesthetic. They can brighten and sharpen a wardrobe. White stripes can make great colors even better, and even make moderate colors acceptable. As with most classic attire, they can be dressed up or dressed down.

Here are a few thoughts:

• In more egalitarian styles, there usually should be only two colors. One color should be white, with the exception of the following pairs: pink and green, navy and pink, and blue and green.
• For "old school" items such as Repp Ties, University Scarves, Cricket Sweaters, Braces, etc, three colors can work;. when they do, the stripes tend to be vertical, or angled.
• Stripes should only be used with classic styles, including rugby shirts, jacket linings, crew neck sweaters, oxford shirts, polo shirts, and the occasional T-shirt.
• If you are unsure, the stripes should be of the same width.

Hanna Andersson Anorak at the Local Farmers' Market

Blacklisted Colors

There are colors that should almost always be avoided in a classic New England wardrobe. They include:

• Rust
• Magenta
• Mint
• Royal (although its neighbor French Blue works)
• Graphite (although its neighbor Charcoal works)
• Beige / Taupe (although Khakis, natural canvas (see below) and Irish Fisherman's Sweaters are exceptions)
• Mulberry / Plum (although its neighbor Maroon / Burgundy works)
• Teal Blue/ Teal Green/ Teal Anything
• Aqua
• Coral
• Tarragon
  
• Rose/ Rose Bud/ Dusty Rose / Dusty Anything (Although faded Nantucket Red works)
  
• Violet
• Apricot
• Sea Foam Green / Sea Foam Blue
• Gold (But stripes on a Repp tie, and L.L. Bean's Field Coat in Saddle work)
  

Natural canvas works, but beige does not

There are a few colors that are mostly misused. But they can work, albeit only in highly specific situations.

• Black can work, but only in formal wear worn after 6 in a major metropolis.
  
• Red never works when paired with black except a Maine Guide Shirt or Filson Mackinaw. And obviously, even a stripe or trim of red precludes wearing pink.
  
• Orange can work if the garment is authentic working gear, such as survival or sporting.
  
• Mossy green and brown should be used by experts only. Olive should be left to Barbour.
  

A Rare Successful Use of Orange

Best. Sleepwear. Ever.

Hanna Andersson Long Johns

The Oregon based Hanna Andersson (go there) has, for over 20 years, been offering the most vibrant, comfortable, soft and distinctive long johns for adults and children. Most often used as sleepwear, these fabulous garments are made in Peru from 100% organic cotton, feature flatlock seams and very soft ribknit. It is almost impossible to match their rich dyes and bold stripes. What they do so marvelously well is to combine this with classic cuts. (If one wants the alternating white and bright color combinations, the spring collection is when these are most commonly offered, as opposed to the fall collection, which features alternating stripes, usually excluding white.)

Like so many high quality products, they hold up well over time; their colors staying vibrant for years. They are sized and designed for comfort, yet do not compromise looks. It is not uncommon for three generations within a family to be wearing these.