Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Ralph Lauren Women’s Oxford Shirts: Classic Fit vs Skinny Fit

Women's Classic Fit Oxford
The best oxford shirts for women are Ralph Lauren's Classic Fit and Skinny Fit. But although they share the same marvelously soft oxford cloth fabric, the same benchmark construction (see Oxford Shirts: The Ten Commandments ), and at first glance they may look the same, the two styles have distinct differences and should be worn differently.
The Classic Fit has just the right proportions and falls well if one wishes to wear it untucked. It is exceptionally comfortable yet not “frumpy." It looks best with sleeves rolled up, and paired with khakis and either Topsiders or a pair of Hanna Andersson wooden clogs
Women's Classic Fit Oxford
Almost every aspect of the Skinny Fit, on the other hand, falls under the “more narrow” description. This includes the placket, the collar and mostly, the overall fit. The single worst visual aspect of the Skinny Fit oxford shirt are the “back darts” that span the entire length of the shirt. It does achieve the goal of slimming the silhouette, but at the great expense of comfort, and when worn alone, looks. However, there is a perfect use: if one wants to wear an oxford under a sweater, the Skinny Fit works uniquely well, where the Classic Fit is simply much too bulky.

Women's Classic Fit Oxford

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Top Fifteen Ways L.L. Bean Can Save Itself

L.L. Bean has for so many decades enjoyed a much deserved reputation as a great iconic American company, with legions of fiercely loyal customers spanning generations, through their impressive clothes and customer service. But while that same high level of customer service endures, their offerings have taken another (and unfortunate) path over the past few years.

So here are the top fifteen ways L.L. Bean can save itself.

1. Get rid of Signature

See L.L. Bean Signature Fall 2010 Review and L.L. Bean Signature Line Review.

2. Close all of the mall stores

And consequently eliminate all the items, such as those with giant motifs and giant buttons, that are designed to fill them.

3. Improve, rather than "improve", staple items

Incremental improvement, such as better stitching and thicker fabrics, is critical and expected. But they should stop radically redesigning or just plain cheapening clothes and calling it "improved". Customers don’t want to waste time trying to figure out what khaki pants to buy every time they need a new pair. Change is not always a good thing.

See Four Classic Items that Aren't Anymore.

4. Stop discontinuing customers’ staple items

L.L. Bean no longer offers dozens of fabulous items (such as the Natural/Navy Birdseye sweater).

See Five items to be brought back.

5. Bring back items from decades ago

But they should not "redesign", "reinterpret", or "update" them. Any changes, if done at all, should be to recommit to functionality and purpose, not trendiness and lower production costs.

See Authentic Synthetics? Barbour and how to navigate the challenge of new materials.

6. Mainstream more of their clothing from their hunting and fishing departments

This is where quality and functionality are at the forefront.

7. Increase the “Made in Maine” items; Decrease the "Made in China" items

They have done this brilliantly with the Bean Boot, and Boat and Tote production.

8. Get rid of Signature

9. Embrace the organic and sustainable fabrics

Even Wal-Mart offers organic cotton.

10. Spend more money on quality materials and construction; less on advertising and public relations

11. Stop slim-fitting so many items

Most people are not so slim, and even those who are don’t always want super tight clothes. This is probably a trend whose reversal is not far away.

12. Stop bathing so many cotton items in stain resistant, wrinkle resistant chemicals

Many items labeled 100% cotton feel more like polyester. Though a lot of customers appreciate some of the properties the chemicals enable, there should be identical, untreated alternatives for the core items (like the Men’s Double L Chinos, for example).

13. Overhaul, yet again, the Women’s offerings

L.L. Bean has never really gotten this right, although in the past there have been enough staples one could ferret out to compile a classic wardrobe. This is not true at present.

14. Style more effectively the Women’s classic items in catalogs

A great many classic items over the years have not been showcased effectively in the catalogs, combining bad colors, etc., and therefore giving a frumpier look to classic items that should look great.

15. Get rid of Signature


L.L. Bean is on the verge of reestablishing itself as a shadow of its former self. It is throwing away so much good will and loyalty built up over the decades. There is still time to turn the company around. But not much.

See also:

Sunday, June 6, 2010

The Impact of Delft Blue

The Royal Delftware Store in Delft, The Netherlands (the source of the new Delft in this entry )
After over five hundred years of production, Delft Blue still reigns. It is a color and style that prove the point that classics endure.


New Delft, with classic motifs


New Delft (made in Holland, not in China)


Antique Delft



Vera Bradley's interpretation, "Delft", now nearly two decades old