The premise of the chart is that vendors go through various stages, from the entrepreneurial crucible stage on the left to the all-but-dead company shell on the right. Each of these stages can be summarized by the three independent variables of quality, marketshare, and PR spend. (These lines represent high level abstractions of general trends, and may not apply to every vendor as positioned).
Some notes. Companies go through at different speeds. Some companies stay in one spot. Some companies “begin” in the middle of the chart. The positioning of the companies on this chart are where I see each of them today. Your mileage may vary.
Here are the stages and clusters:
Crucible
- New company serves demanding clients in authentic environments significantly better then competitors
- Company’s founder is hands on
- People often love the products without necessarily recognizing the company that made it (i.e. "this is my favorite hat" said by an owner of a Vermont Originals hat without knowing the name "Vermont Originals.")
- Fiercely passionate customers, who are "in the know," are very loyal to the company
- The company has significantly higher prices than competitors
- Quality is paramount
- Customers can still call or email and get the owner (and often work through any problems)
Iconic
- Company is iconic, with widely recognized popular and unique items
- Great pride is taken in the brand
- Items are expensive, but high quality
- New items are extensions of old
- Companies gain increasing brand recognition well beyond passionate base
New Markets
- Often new management
- Purge of old employees and suppliers/branded vendors
- Take the customer base for granted - many loyal customers find themselves buying less and less
- Leverage the look and the feel of the brand
- Vendors open mall stores, for example
Cash Grab
- There is significant confusion for traditional customers
- Some classics remain (but fewer and fewer)
- There are wild fluctuations of prices (higher prices, then massive sales)
- New products are low quality and relatively expensive
- The companies increasingly outsource production to low-cost providers
- They have giant PR budgets, first trying to differentiate themselves from their past, then relentlessly trying to invoke it (and readily making stock photos available to bloggers)
- Customers start to experience return-fatigue
- There is a big opportunity for upper management to personally cash in with a one-time windfall, sacrificing long-term employees
- Companies are no longer differentiated in the marketplace
- They bear no resemblance to their original selves
Company Notes
Virtually every product sold by the companies in the two categories on the left are made in the United States. Contrast that to the companies on the right. In the middle, J.Press, Barbour and Orvis have a mix, with a good amount made in the UK.
- Vineyard Vines has gone through this cycle incredibly quickly.
- Leather Man Ltd has reasonable prices despite straddling the Crucible/ Precious categories.
- L.L. Bean is peering into the abyss. I can now only buy six items from L.L. Bean with any confidence: Norwegian Sweaters; Boat and Totes; Bean Boots; Chamois Shirts; Flannel Shirts; Ragg Socks. It is worth noting that none of these are made in China and the socks, bags and boots are all US made.
- Ralph Lauren is still one of the few companies where women can still find truly classic items, and quality remains good.
- Barbour is dancing with the devil. They don't want to be any more to the right than they currently are.
- It is not surprising that Sperry Topsider and L.L. Bean Signature share the same PR firm, LaForce + Stevens.
Let me end with two premises.
- First, over a twenty five year time span, there will always be classic khakis, shirts, and shoes available. But their availability at any moment in time is suspect and unpredictable, thus savvy customers buy ahead.
- One must let go of old favorites, as well as look for new and promising companies.
My husband used to work at Gartner as an analyst and helped me with this chart.
57 comments:
OMG! I feel like Linda Blair. My eyes are rolling into the back of my head. Send that blog entry up to HBS!
It's so sad to see what has happened to companies like Sperry Topsider. I never know whether to laugh or cry when I see their "shoes" now because the material is horrible. Is it plastic? When companies decide to appeal to "the masses", they inevitably lose a lot in the process..... including long-time customers who appreciate quality and don't want to constantly replace shoddy goods which only last one season.
Thanks for introducing me to some regional companies who still take pride in their work and value their customers.
Yep. Exactly. And there are a bunch of other small companies swimming around on the left, trying to make their way into the pool and start climbing up the river.
I just said to my mom the other day 'why can't Sperry make normal Top Siders?'. They are awful.
Wow. As a management consultant and Booz Allen alum, you certainly got MY attention. I love your analysis. Spot-on.
My only quibble would be how close to one other J. Press and Brooks seem to be on your chart, while I perceive them in reality to be miles apart. Not so much in terms of price, quality, and PR (though there are certainly differences there) -- but in the simple fact that Press still GETS IT while Brooks seems to have lost it. This, I think, is a question of vision.
Another interesting thing to think about is how these companies try to re-invent themselves once they reach the "shell" stage. That's a feature of businesses across industries: They begin by being close to their customers; experience rapid growth and success; establish policies, processes, and systems to replicate that success; and in so doing, end up distanced from their customers. New, more authentic and innovative companies begin to take their place. They've become too large to "get small again" and go back to their roots (as we all nostalgically wish they would do), so now they try to re-invent themselves. Thus you have LLB with Signature and Lands End with Canvas and Brooks with Thom Browne and even J. Press messing around with Urban Outfitters. Sad to say that I do not see any of these efforts as especially successful.
Times do change; I'm proud to wear my Abercrombie & Fitch shirts from my father that were purchased in the early 1960's. At the same time, no one in my family would be caught shopping there today. Another example; I've given up on Sperry topsiders but, have found the topsiders from Rockport to be conservative in style, most comfortable and very durable. Over the holidays it was my intention to give my wife a Barbour coat, the ones I found through a very reputable store were made in China or Eastern Europe and of very poor quality; instead I found the perfect coat for her at Filson. In an ever changing world, one must be vigilant with old brands and be open to new ones without sacrificing quality or taste.
Can you explain your comment that Vineyard Vines has gone through this cycle very quickly? I guess I'm wondering if you are saying they are at the "shell" stage?
I can't claim I've been wearing their stuff since 1998 when it was founded, but in 2005 the brand seemed completely different. Maybe it's me, but I notice the little things like the fact you used to be able to get 7" dock shorts in various colors. Then it changed to only 8" shorts in various colors, since last summer the inseam is 9". This may seem insignificant, but to me it's an example of them moving from their demographic to become more majoritarian.
Dear Muffy: Your chart is so right. Case in point--I had a Brooks Brothers account for over thirty years, as had my father and grandfather, but recently used it less because they have lost their way. The last time I was in a Brooks (to buy some buttondowns)my card was refused. Reason: lack of activity. The manager was apologetic, said it was happening to a lot of old-guard Brooks customers, and urged me to write the customer service VP. I did--and got nowhere. Basically, Brooks said, "Sorry if you feel offended, but tough." I haven't been back.
By the way, my wife and I just spent our 25th anniversary in Essex, at the Griswold Inn (owned by an old family friend). Perfect town, perfect inn, perfect anniversary. Hoped to bump into you and thank you for your perfect blog and perfect taste, too--maybe next anniversary.
@Katherine - My, that's quite an image! And/but thank you!
@Billsburg - So true about Sperry. I am down to only two items I can buy from them. The companies on the left make me feel both excited and hopeful.
@LPC - You are right. There are so many more of which I've heard. Ultimately I only comment on this blog about the companies with which I have first hand experience.
@teresa-bug - It can be a frustrating time between when the traditional vendor abandons a market spot and a new one fills it. This is especially true for females.
Excellent analysis. Although I might add that this is not limited solely to preppy companies, even though that is the focus of your blog. I would argue that you can see the same pattern in many American companies, even (dare I say it) the anti-prep chain of all- Wal-mart which under its founder tried to at least pay lip service to american goods and employee retention, and is now strictly in the far right sector. In the tech sector I would use Blackberry as an example (although it is Canadian) or perhaps Dell- who changed the way PC's were bought...Examples abound.
And not to be argumentative, but in response to Sarte's comment- I personally think campaigns such as Canvas and Signature could have worked. HOWEVER, the companies have focused on aesthetics only, without actually returning to thier roots- quality of materials and workmanship. As I believe you have pointed out, many of the items in both lines are still sourced in China, etc...It was simply a marketing/branding campaign rather than a return to roots. Big fail.
@Sartre - You are way ahead of me. I had just been noting that BB needed to be bumped to the right. Arguably, it could go further. It is hard for these new efforts to escape the mother-ship (in Booz-speak: KPI, synergy, etc.)
@Pete - We still have a few of those great A&F items around, including a walking stick which I use daily. I debated whether or not to put Filson on the chart, as their quality has remained high. I'm going to take a look at those Rockports.
@Shawn - I don't believe Vineyard Vines is a shell company yet, but they are headed that way. I bought their fabulous ties in the very beginning. Then the 2004 Presidential election, with both candidates sporting their ties, pushed the company into the iconic category. Now their PR efforts have overshot both their quality and design efforts. The company appears to be on MBA-autopilot, trying to make as much money as they can as fast as they can before they crash and burn.
@Michael - I had totally forgotten that I once had a BB account. It used to see a lot of action, but no more. Please pass my compliments onto to your friend. The Griz is the heart of Essex. It sounds like a lovely way to celebrate. And thank you for your kind words.
@SouthernProletariat: I don't think you're being argumentative. I agree, I think Canvas and Signature could have worked. In fact, they may be working! Bearing in mind that the companies' objective is to find new markets and grow the business -- not to go back and recapture the "old guard," much as we would love to have it be so.
@SouthernProletariat- Great point. Apple Computer may be one of the few companies recently that has moved significantly to the left. I would suggest that Canvas was an effort to move left on the chart, and Signature was an effort to move right. While I am not a personal fan of Canvas, I appreciate their direction more. Not surprisingly, since I last compared Facebook numbers, L.L. Bean Signature has gained 484 fan while Canvas has gained 15,249 fans.
@Sartre - I agree that you two agree!
Vineyard Vines has gone down hill since their rapid expansion. There was something nice about going to Christmas Fairs and seeing their offereings-different and well made. I swear that once a company opens an outlet store they are sliding down the slippery slope of banality.
Wellingtons have also sunk-too mass market. My 30 year old English made Wellies still do the job, yet a pair just two years old are ready for the rubbish heap.
Great analysis Muffy! you're right in your observations. I see what you mean about Barbour, they need to stay the course with there product line, and not be swayed by current fashion trends. I see that with the emergence of the Hunter Boot line with it's crazy color palette. With the current mens spring Brooks Brothers line again trying to put in trendy accents aka cargo pockets (Really!).
I'd reconsider Filson, and have a look at the Berretta jackets and sweaters line really high quality.
When it comes to design less is more!
Well done!
However, I wonder if a key point hasn't been overlooked, by many of us who have expressed disappointment in some of our old favorite vendors, over the years. It is true that they have lost identity, had deteriorating quality, etc.
However, it is vital to look at how the American consumer has changed, over the years!
For example, not that long ago, male passengers on commercial airlines wore suits, and female passengers wore well tailored suits, or dresses.
Look at the American public, today. Airline passengers are dressed in sweat suits, shorts, and things that seem totally inappropriate to wear in public. Same with much you see in church, today.
If you are the CEO of one of the companies ranked, do you recognize the slobification of the American public, and try to stay afloat by selling things that they might buy, as dreadful as they are, or do you keep a totally authentic line hueing to your past image, and go out of business?
You probably do the former, and end up with a little of everything, and not much of anything.
Mercer hasn't changed, and is happy with a very small segment of the market. Bass used to be a respected staple, but is now totally junk, and apparently what the market calls for.
The chart would appear to be a commentary on the slobification of the American public, and the struggle of vendors to try to stay afloat in a sea of really bad taste.
@Marie - I agree that a mall/outlet opening is a red flag. The only exception to that, I believe, may be the Ralph Lauren outlets. They have been able to maintain a level of quality, if not always good design.
@j.mosby - Filson has absolutely maintained both its quality and design. I just went back and forth on whether or not it fit squarely in the "preppy" category. The chart in not inclusive.
@Wharf Rat - What I used to love about L.L. Bean is how cleverly they were able to satisfy the purists, the outdoors men, as well as the "average" customer who just wanted a straight forward, well made and reasonably priced garments, all at the same time. Ralph Lauren has over the years dipped into the slob market and mostly returned to the classic. The "new markets" pursued by the companies on this chart, such as Gant, Coach, Lilly, Signature, Vera Bradley, Vineyard Vines are not down market (a la what Cuisinart did decades ago), but actually more expensive items that just happen to be cheaply made. Most importantly, these "move from the base" strategies are seldom successful, and so can't be justified as a simple survival strategy.
Love that the chart was a family project!
About LL Bean - are you referring just to their apparel lines?
I think that you are spot on. I just bought a pair of BB socks, gave them one wash and now the tops curl. I must say that Land's End is trying to move to the left, the climb back is not always easy. Bean,Sperry,V.V all seem to moving to the right under their own weight. Some of these companies we will have to watch and see. I am excited about the small companies on the left.
Great job.
On the topic of Vineyard Vines, the catalogs they mail out to buyers are horrible. They look like something made by a high-school newspaper staff.
Does anyone know if this has always been the case. Have they always turned out such cheap and cheesy catalogs? I think looking at the development of company catalogs would be an interesting study.
I notice you never mention J.McLaughlin. Any particular reason why this company wouldn't be included?
In my Californian eyes, this is precise, pithy, and easy to understand. As the mom and pop stores disappeared, so too did prep in Los Angeles. About the only store for tradition, and even they don't call themselves preppy is Nordstrom. Yuck!
The once tradional bastions of Los Angeles have changed demographically. The results being even the most traditional of area's, San Marino, Pasadena, and even Beverly Hills, having scant places to buy.
In 1984, when I entered menswear, there were 7 small, indapendant mens haberdashers at various pricepoints that as you aged and could have better quality, you moved to another store. Now, there is one and its related to its motherstore in Beverly Hills.
Thanks for Leather Man!! Sis gave me,her staff (and boss) Leather Man key chains for Christmas and they were an instant hit. Personalized for personality.
Its great to hear how much fun she had while working over the phone with the staff.
They are doing the way I played 'store' for 20 years. Fun shopping experience leads to many more, even if done over the phone.
Where/how did you do your research? Excellent commentators on the blog. Very intelligent.
Thanks for the fun reads!
This tome causes me to recall a seldom used Marketing concept - the Wheel of Retailing - that propelled former business school profesors and Managgement Horizons, Inc. founders Bill Davidson and Alton Doody to prominence forty years ago.
Your adept use of a variant of Gartner's Hype Cycle clearly delineates the forces and implications of market maturation.
Well done!
OSP
With Barbour, its core waxed-cotton garments are still manufactured in Britain, in a factory in South Shields, Tyne and Wear; other products, many marketed directly at the 16-30 age group are made in China and Eastern Europe.
Hunter boots have followed the same trajectory out of necessity, as the company was insolvent in 2006. After the takeover it started marketing itself more to the music festival and fashion conscious crowds and moved its production to Serbia and China to lower costs. The lower production costs have fed through to lower prices for the consumer, making the products more accessible to the new target audience, but quality has suffered dreadfully.
Which is why it is so smart of companies like KJP to tap into the blogger world. How many of us know about him simply from bloggers!? He is awesome about having us review his products and hosting giveaways - and yes, we speak to Kiel any time we want to.
I find myself leaning more and more toward companies I can speak to. I have only ever bought a few specific things from LLB each season but I like knowing I am calling someone who knows the product. I have my own little beef with their choice in broker today and will have to have my items shipped to a US friend and forwarded to me.
Most of the other companies dont/wont/charge a fortune to ship to Canada so I just skip them.
As for evolution...one word - Talbots. Just when I feel mature enough to shop there, they stop catering to me and are no focusing on 20 year olds.
The average North American consumer wanted lower prices so things had to be outsourced and as much as people verbally object to this, they still buy the cheaper products. How many people actually read the labels to see where something is made?
@Gordo - So glad you were pleased with Leather Man. They have always been wonderful. When my son was little, we would often visit and watch them sew the belts. My son would give treats to the dog of one of the sewers and sit on the fork-lift.
I have learned so much from the intelligent comments left on this blog, as well as emailed to me, over the past year. (I'm talking to you, Wharf Rat!) I mean it when I say it is a straw man. And I have already made changes based on comments(Sartre!).
@Old - I am so impressed that you know of the Hype Cycle. My husband was an early implementer of it at Gartner. Boy - Lee Roy Reams and Gartner! What don't you know?!
@Sophie - This is exactly the kind of comment from which I learn so much. Thank you!
@Suburban Princess - On target about KJP as well as Talbots. I think awareness is growing about where and by whom a product is made. And interesting perspectives on Canada.
I just found out from LLBean that their Double L cableknit sweaters...are made in China.
Midwestern modesty compels me to fess up that I don't know enough about too much.
Lee Roy Reams was a graduate student and popular local performer when my grandparents were still active faculty members of the University of Cincinnati long before I reached the age of reason. I believe they saw him perform in a half dozen plays on Broadway and elsewhere from the late sixties through the early eighties.
I also had alot of interplay with Gartner during my time with Xerox Corporation between business school and returning to the Peoples Republic eight years later to earn an advanced graduate degree, my third and last from Michigan.
The winter in these here parts has been bleak and frigid. A neighbor recently asked me if I was so smart why did I spent four nasty winters in South Bend, Indiana and six nastier ones in Ann Arbor as a MBA, MA and Ph.D. student? My response was simple. I didn't know any better. I am originally from Pittsford (Rochester),NY
Smathers and Branson is a firm you excluded, maybe out of space considerations, or maybe sales volume. The founders played Lax at Bowdoin and have done a terrific job with sustaining a niche product over nearly ten years. Recently, the firm made a Bowdoin Law belt which members of my son's team received as gifts from supportive alumni after the team went to the NCAAs for the first time. It just doesn't get preppier than that.
Muffy, I don't know what I enjoyed more, your post, or all the great comments! This has been wonderful reading. Oh, and yes, I concur with the whole, sad picture.
Smathers and Branson brings up an excellent point, that those of us that obsess about things like this think of, from time to time.
S&M makes an outstanding product, and one that has been recognized as such, by a loyal following.
However, there is a school of thought that the only authentic needelpoint is one made by hand, with icons specific to the wearer, and is much less perfect than the machine made S&M product.
Makes you appreciate your handmade treasure, that was created long before S&M came on the market.
@Pete - I wouldn't get too excited about the Rockports. In my experience, Rockport's quality line did a 90 degree turn to nosedive around 2004. I bought a pair of Rockports in 2003 which I loved and still wear; I liked them so much that I bought two more pairs the following year. Those two pairs' soles wore out in three months--that's three months of alternating between the two new ones and the original pair. Rockport is my personal poster child for building a name and then ramming it into the ground.
I'm with Wharf Rat...I sat in the parkinglot outside my shoemakers (waiting for him to open up one morning) and counted to myself how many people walking by were wearing sneakers, sweats or baseball caps.
Now granted it's the dead of winter here in Philadelphia but over 70% of the shoppers were wearing one of these items. I should preface this by saying that the small mall where I was waiting is in one of the most upscale neighborhoods in the region (demographics available show average household income over 150K, 90% college grads and 30% with masters degrees or higher). I was amazed that even in a high income area there were so many people dress so abominably...
Yes, certainly, the customers have changed...perhaps forever and not for the better!
@Gordo - It's not strictly prep, but what do you think about South Willard?
I always think, if it isn't broke, then why bother to fix it, or some such. What I find is vintage style is best wrought by vintage clothes. The best most genuine 'topsiders' are, of course, the old type. Particularly those of the 40's properly white soled to protect the decks of ships and boats. They are spot on, because THEY ARE the original. Though not possible for all and not an unlimited supply. I always find the rough edges make rather a quiet statement. Old, often, is better. Though I suppose 'better is in the eye of the beholder'.
My grandmother once told me she judged a persons country/summer house by how bare were the threads in the Aubusson. "If it's shiny and new, so is the money. They may have more of it,dear, but ours has had time to season". If only I still had that wisdom or that old money.
I would be very interested in your take on corduroy trousers for men. I've been looking for a while for a good pair of darker-colored wide wales, but have had little luck.
Mr Silverman; you and I share the same view of our culture, today. However,there may be reason for optimism, in the long run. These things tend to go in cycles, albeit long sine wave cycles.
Campus dress was neat and clean until the 60s. The WWII vets shed uniforms, and really took pride in dressing well. That trend spread throughout every college campus in the US, from the late 40s until mid 60s.
Then the era of the 60s brought Woodstock, long hair, bad manners, grunge, etc.
Next, grown men started wearing baseball hats to every event, some on backward. Suits became passee, and "casual" meant cool.
It isn't impossible, that at some point, Americans will look around and discover ideas from someplace like TDP as a fresh new idea, that could swing the culture around dramatically.
Might not happen any time soon, but a few role models could cause the masses to rediscover the benefits of dressing well, and taking pride in personal appearance.
At that point, the quality vendors in Mrs A's graph will again have a market.
@Forrest -- if I may -- you should try O'Connell's, which has darker colors available in both flat front and forward pleated models. J. Press also carries them but I find O'Connell's colors to be slightly richer.
Generally agree with the analysis but I'd make a few comments about individual firms.
Brooks Bros: despite the fact that some think they have alipped over the edge in fact I think they have been saved from the abyss. Yes they have too many sales but there's no question that under M&S' repositioning as a sort of superior Gap the end was nigh. After being a customer for 25 years I never went in for ten. Now I've been back for five. A lot of the merchandise is "made in China" but there is still a lot of great quality from Italy and Britain mixed in there also. You just have to be selective.
Alden: Basically in great shape, the merchandise is as good as it's ever been and they've thrown in a few new elements.
Barbour: Ditto. I bought a new Border coat a couple of years back (my previous was 30 years old) and it was fine.
Ralph Lauren: No problem at the high end. I'm continually amazed how Ralphie does it. Dreck at outlets and $4000 off the peg suits but his brand integrity remains and his quality at the high end is superb and sometimes in sales there are incredible bargains in suits, pants etc.
Good lord. I think this blog gets better all the time:).
Great post and interesting comments. One of the things lost in all of this is the underlying economic drivers that companies like Brooks et. al. face these days.
Company management is under constant pressure to grow the business. A big reason for this is the fact that shareholders demand it, but other issues drive this as well. Employees want to get a raise every year. Medical insurance, with the typical company picking up about 70% of an individual employee's cost goes up every year,rent and software license agreements have built in escalators, etc. The inexorable fact is that there is an upward bias when it comes to operating expenses.
Companies fight this by becoming more efficient, laying people off, etc., but at some point you can only get so much juice from a turnip. Ultimately, a company must have sales and/or gross margin expansion to create meaningful earnings growth.
Sales growth has obviously been more difficult to come by over the last couple of years. More importantly, gross margins have been under heavy pressure due to rapidly increasing commodity costs. The Fed has, for the last several years (like the last 10), pursued expansionary monetary policy which is driving down the dollar's value. Cotton, leather, oil (used to make rubber soles on Sperry shoes) are dollar denominated commodities. This means that dollar devaluation results in commodity price increases.
A great example of this is a $50 gold piece from the 1850s. This gold piece would have bought a man a nice suit during its minting period. Interestingly enough, it would still buy a man a nice suit today. This is because that $50 gold piece is now worth about $1,500. The value of the good didn't change. Merely the value of the dollar.
So, Brooks Brothers or another company has a few choices here. First is to raise prices due to commodity price increases. This would, of course, likely result in fewer sales due to the price elasticity of demand and implies that they would really have to raies prices some factor more than the commodity price inflation in order to find the point where margin dollars expanded in the P&L.
Their second choice is to find ways--either through changes in construction and material or through labor arbitrage--to mitigate the impact of commodity price inflation. Thus prices stay the same, but quality goes down.
The third choice, which is to just eat the price increases and suffer falling profits is a non-starter.
This is a bit simplistic as it focuses only on commodity prices and excludes the fact that labor, energy costs, etc. can also increase in price.
My point is that these companies face a big challenge. I don't like some of the quality declines any more than you do and have found myself migrating away from certain vendors.
Maybe I'm making the point. All of this is driven by a desire for expanding profits. That said, I was never under the impression that any of these firms is a philanthropy.
If you are looking for another preppy company to add to your radar I would love to have you take a look at mine. www.kaycehughes.com
I am extremely disappointed in the ratings of Gant, of which I find to be a higher quality brand in comparison to some of the others listed, and its low positioning astounds me. Nevertheless, excellent list.
If you want American made shoes you should consider Russell Moccasins. Terrific hand-made, custom order boots and shoes. I can attest to their quality- best shoes I have ever owned.
Muffy - would you ever consider rating the 10 preppiest retail stores in New England? I thought of it since you rated the 10 preppiest brands.
@Birddog - We have had years of experience with Russell. I couldn't agree more.
@Becky Belcher - That is a great idea. I somehow think that Peter Becks would be on that list!
I went to buy a new pair of Bass Weejuns yesterday and I noticed that the soles were made of BONDED leather, rather than the GENUINE leather that they used to be. I asked the clerk about that and he said that ever since the company had been bought out, they are no longer handsewn and production is now offshore (El Salvador) while the price is still the same. So put this on your list of companies of old line companies that have reduced their value to the customer. I walked out of the store and won't be going back.
Great post! I fear that J. Press might slowly be moving to the right of the chart with their partnership with Urban Outfitters.
I am late to the party here, but someone recently sent me a link to this article. Great insights on where several, of these brands are currently, and where they are headed.
"Matt" has some good, valid points. Yes, these companies were created to make a profit. They are faced daily with choices of quality and authenticity, customer value, etc versus sales and profitability. In fact I think that is the whole point of the analysis. They have choices. Tommy Hilfiger chose the money, got it quickly and now the new owner is stuck with trying to "re-brand" a low quality, forgotten brand. As Muffy points out, vineyard vines is headed in this same direction. Those are choices made by the owners. It doesn't mean we have to be sheep and follow them along. In fact, the people here seem to be the types of people that recoginize these things earliest.
Stopped most Brooks Brothers shopping since they started putting logos and Golden Fleeces on everything. They believe that they are Abercrombie. I just stick with J. Press and John Helmer, a great local retailer. I special ordered some shirts and suddenly they are made in Malaysia and despite my request came in "iron-free cotton", and a newer bubble gum pink-not the classic, softer gorgeous pink which the shirt buyer says is being phased out. It is definitely an "imported" fabric, not true Supima. I worked at 346 Mad in custom order from 1983-1987 whilst attending NYU, so I have a general idea of the classic BB offerings. The special order shirts are no longer made by Gitman as they were at the time I worked there. I used to run down to Gitman to pick up a late order for cranky customers like Fred Hughes; the good olde days. Sorry for the ungentlemanly venting.
There are some good insights in this thread, some that most people may not fully appreciate. Price pressure these days is everything and part of the reason is because of internet shopping. I just bought five Brooks Brothers shirts on eBay that are of excellent quality but are imported nonetheless. Funny, we used to think imported things were better.
One irony here is that of some companies who have moved production overseas, such as Ben Davis, a West Coast workwear firm, many of the American workers were not "American" at all. They were Asian immigrants. Likewise, the formerly great shoe factories in the Northeast employed a lot of immigrants, too. All the same, I miss some of older American names that have disappeared. I also love Filson and I even have a few older items that have the union labels. Wonder if that has anything to do with the way things have changed?
Oh please do not tell me you mean to say that Asian immigrants are not American? Please? You know where that will lead us.
No, you miss my point, which is that if an Asian makes it in China, it is inferior but if it's make in Seattle by an Asian, it's better. I realize there are other factors involved. In any case, I think companies will always be forced to change when their customers change and alas, we all change, if only a little.
Another irony is they way we shun a company because they never have anything new. I don't suppose we would say that about our favorite antique store.
Oh good - thank you for clearing that up. Of course I am a believer in the inexorable force of free trade. I'd rather see shoes made in China, while the US focuses on advanced health technologies, environmental rescue technologies, and entertainment and design. All high IP work, low labor costs gets you nothing, needs good infrastructure in place, and we can keep our competitive advantage. But hey, all I've got is an opinion:).
Muffy,
I thoroughly enjoy your blog and it has really helped guide me toward high quality clothing manufacturers. In fact, I wished I had listened to your negative opinion regarding eddie bauer because I recently returned a backpack that had started falling apart after only a month of use. In fact, the staff were very rude to me. It seems that eddie bauer should invest less in PR and more in quality control and employee training. I suggest that you glance at the recent upgrae of American Eagle. I am not embarrassed to say that the clothing that i purchased there in my early teens has lasted like iron. AE seems to have shifted toward a more classic american look without making a gimmick out of it (cough, J. Crew, cough, LL Bean Signature). Their clothing would be perfectly suitable for children and young adults who wish to achieve a classic look with longevity. Anyway, I recently purchased a grey patagonia synchilla jacket (for $50 on clearance) which I couldn't be happier with and I just ordered a Made in USA Navy Schott peacoat from a discounted military supplier so I'm very excited to see how Made in USA translated to their quality. Be well and do good work,
Dunn
During my trip to my niece's graduation from Exeter last weekend, we made a side-trip to Bean's, which I hadn't been to since the early-to-mid 90s.
I'd long watched the decline in the caliber of material in the catalogue (people thought I was being too picky when I pointed out that the buttons on the waistband of the khakis that had replaced the hook-and-eye closure they'd always used was a harbinger of bad news) but wasn't prepared for the degree to which the store had become "slick."
Somewhere on this blog, I read about how there are only four or five items you can still buy with confidence from Bean's. Poignant and painfully accurate. That has been my experience also. At the risk of sounding unduly snobbish, both Bean's and Brooks were much healthier, stock-wise, before they decided to add to their bank accounts by dumbing-down and bland-ifying their stock to cater to both middle-brow, middle-American taste, as well as (in Brooks' case) glitzy "fashionistas" (to use another word I loathe.
Thank God for Press, which seems to be holding fast. But the apparently unabated surge of this gormless millennial "preppy renaissance" is worrisome. As you've said here, the thing to do is stock up on beloved items--much more practical on the patinated side of forty!
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