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| Getting the right fit was more direct when you sent in a tracing of your foot, as I did for the pair on the right back in 1977. |
1. I was thinking of buying a pair of the classic L.L. Bean boots for the winter; I haven't owned any before. I generally wear a size 8 1/2 shoe, and the catalog says if you wear a half size to go a size down for the boots. Have you/anyone you know found this to be accurate? Thank you.
I have found them to be all over the place with their sizing and it depends on which style you are ordering . Certainly their advice was on target when I purchased my 10" Gore-Tex/Thinsulate boots. I usually wear a 9½ so I ordered the 9 and they were perfect. This was not the case with the Rubber Mocs. They were much too small and only after four iterations did I settle on a size that frankly, still isn't right. I also tried a size 9 in the Wool-Lined Zip Boot but that too was much too small, so I am now in the process of ordering the 10.
2. Hi Muffy, I hope this email finds you well. I need your knowledgeable assistance for finding the right item. I have been looking for a quality leather weekend duffle bag for some time but I haven't had any luck. It is increasingly hard to find companies that make simple quality fine leather products. I need a nice leather bag for traveling on weekends or as a nice carry-on bag. The only catch is that I really don't want to spend much more than $300, so we're not talking Ghurka here!
I have yet to come across a high quality leather duffle bag at a reasonable price. One of the nicest ones I have found (but at almost $1,000.00) is from Lotuff & Clegg. They are made in Massachusetts, and are beautiful, especially in Tan or Chestnut. I think $300.00 can buy a high quality US-made canvas/twill bag from places like Filson.
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| Barbour Bedale Wax in Navy |
My first thought is a Barbour waxed cotton jacket, either the Bedale or the Beaufort. (The Bedale is a bit shorter.) I have found mine to be superb at blocking the wind, and with the addition of a liner it serves a good cold weather jacket. Although I have both the olive and the navy (and really cannot say which I prefer), I would think that the navy might have an ever so slightly "dressier" appearance for the conferences to which you refer. Another option that comes to mind is a wool duffle coat. Gloverall makes the quintessential version but there are others as well.
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| Vermont Originals Hat |
4. Hi Muffy, I was looking at the newest L.L.Bean catalog that just arrived and noticed a new item, Birdseye hats. And I was wondering, do you think that they are as good as the sweaters? I am looking for a hat that is really warm and will last for many years. Thanks in advance for anything you might come up with.
I gave this item a bit more scrutiny, prompting a call to L.L. Bean for more information. Whenever I see phrases like “inspired by our popular sweaters” and "imported" (without a specific country listed) used by companies, I tend to look a little more closely. The “popular sweaters” are for me a must-have item and worth the price tag of $129.00. They are thick, warm and made in Norway. The hats, however, are made in China. And although they were unable to give me a fabric weight, they appear to be thinner. In my opinion, at roughly 30% of the cost of the sweater, they are not worth the price. Reading the L.L. Bean catalog these days is like reviewing a contract - where, for example, "from our archives" often enought means "modern interpretations" made in China.
Instead I would take a look at a hat from Vermont Originals. For the same amount of money you get a thick, warm hat, handcrafted on small looms in Vermont kitchens by local knitters and home sewers. I have worn Vermont Originals for years, and funnily enough, purchased my first one at the Freeport L.L. Bean store, back when they still sold items from branded vendors made in New England.
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| As of today, I am still wearing my summer khakis; I prefer a longer inseam when I switch to wearing socks (here with Bear, a Maremma Sheepdog). |
We all wear khakis year round, but I think it should depend on hue, fabric weight, and weave. For men, a lighter Khaki or Stone would be more preferable in the warmer months especially in a lighter weave like a poplin.
6. Ivy Style's Christian Chensvold wrote: I was just on your site looking at your cotton cable knits. So 'fess up: How many sweaters total?
Here is the count:
- Ralph Lauren cotton cable - 43
- Ralph Lauren lambswool - 14
- L.L. Bean Ragg Wool - 14
- L.L. Bean Birdseye - 27
- Lilly Pulitzer - 14
- Aran and Misc. - 25
26 comments:
And I thought that I had a sweater habit. Wow! You've put me to shame. I have to fess up, though, that I just got a lambswool and a shetland from L.L. Bean and a shetland from Brooks Bros. All three of course from China, but the price was right and they are well made.
I'm very careful with my old Brooks and Bean sweaters from England and Scotland. How old can those be? And last year, I got a wool/cashmere 'Made in Scotland' sweater from the finest store in all the land....J. Press. It cost more than my three new ones, but I'm happy to have it.
Very interesting questions. I'll add my two cents. First, regarding the Bean boots - the sizing IS all over the place, both across different versions, and over time. I bought a pair of the 8" (I believe) unlined Maine Hunting Shoe, in size 8, maybe 10 years ago. I normally wear 8 1/2, and 8 fits perfectly, even with heavy socks (and especially with heavy socks.)
Regarding a reasonably-priced leather duffle... this is not a duffle, but a tote, but the overall dimensions are not that much smaller than the duffle to which Muffy links: I have looked at and considered buying L.L. Bean's Town and Field Tote in leather. It is "imported," but it still looks quite good for the excellent price of $159. (I have examined it in the store. It's certainly not the highest-quality you could buy, but it's quite handsome and for $159 and with L.L. Bean's guarantee, I think it's a good pick. It does have an odd lining, though - the same fish and wildlife motif that L.L. Bean sometimes uses on their bags.) Years ago I bought what is basically the same tote, but in canvas (and no longer offered), and I have travelled all over the world with it as my carryon. It is also a good size for a weekend trip where you don't need multiple coats and anything large. I would give this leather one a second look. Another one to consider, though I am generally opposed to L.L. Bean Signature, and have also not been able to examine this one in person, is the "Bean's Vacation Bag," offered in the Signature line. It is supposedly "from the archives" and a replica of a bag offered in the 1930s, although I have viewed the catalog in which the original appeared, and there are obvious differences, including obvious quality differences. Still, it, too, is a handsome bag, and is an actual duffle, for $275. It's not clear if it's imported. The tag shown online just says "L.L. Bean Freeport, Maine" which is what a lot of the Made in Maine items USED to say... but I don't know what to make of it now. If they're not touting it as being Made in Maine, I doubt it is.
As for the Bird's Eye hat... I recently saw that in the catalog and was waiting for you to address it. Quite frankly I just kind of thought that it wouldn't look all that great on me, anyway, although I like the pattern of the sweater. It's good to know a little bit more about it. I do have a Vermont Originals hat, also purchased from L.L. Bean back before they "went global" and I think I may buy another one direct.
@Cranky Yankee - I can see why you would be happy with your J. Press sweater! I would rather buy less but buy well.
@Anonymous - The Signature bag is made in China. I hesitate to recommend anything from there as quality is questionable, both in the short term but especially in the long term. I have had several leather items from L.L. Bean that were made in China that have all come apart at the seams. I threw them out as they seemed just too big to ship back.
I am now using my mother's 30+ year old, made in the USA, L.L. Bean leather tote as a pocketbook. It looks plenty used but also will probably be of service for at least another 30 years.
I also saw those Birdseye Hats, and my clicking-finger was twitching until I saw the fairly outrageous price. Thanks for the wave-off on this one! The VT Originals are soooo pretty. "Buy less but buy well" sounds like a credo for our times; thank you for so many delicious sources of Great Stuff!
I had that same problem with Bean Boots when I ordered the low-tops I currently have. I had to send back two pairs before I got the right size. And I agree khakis are definitely year-round wear, although I'm trying to be a little more self-conscious about avoiding lighter colors such as stone during the winter months, as you mentioned.
Just a heads up about a weekender I saw recently at Coach; specifically, "Bleeker Legacy Leather Weekend Tote" @ $598. [Same minimalist design in canvas @ $398.] It looks like a real gem but heck if I know where it's made.
-Flo
I'm glad I read that about the Bean Boots; I'd just been eyeing the Rubber Mocs a couple hours ago. And wow, that is a lot of sweaters!
"Bleeker Legacy Leather Weekend Tote" @ $598.....It looks like a real gem but heck if I know where it's made."
I just sent Coach an email asking where the above "Legacy" tote was made, here is their reply:
"Thank you for your email and interest in COACH. The Bleecker Legacy Leather Weekend Tote is manufactured in China. The leather is called Soft Port Leather. We hope this information is helpful."
We shall press on.
-Flo
Please, let me reverentially start this post by saying I always enjoy your blog and with the caveat that I do not intend to come off as caustic.
In my opinion, far too much stock is put into where items are manufactured. Value judgments on the places of origin for imported clothing (lauding Norway and denigrating China) are often the subconscious product of an ethnocentric viewpoint. As the products of socialization, we are all guilty of making these judgments, myself included.
My favorite, most durable Brooks Brothers sweaters were made in China. It's not as if all Chinese factories operate behind some insurpassable, qualitative threshold - lagging centuries behind Norwegian counterparts.
All that said, in the case of LL Bean, I will defer to your opinion. I have little experience with them and legitimately value any information you have to offer.
Again, this is a great blog. I especially enjoy your posts responding to readers' questions. Keep up the good work.
Muffy, I wonder and would really appreciate how you store your sweaters, especially when winter is over. Your collection is exquisite. Thanks!
As for L.L. Bean and "imported" items... I have found that the "imported" items, on average seem to have decreased in quality over the years. I have some shirts from the late 1990s, when I first started noticing non-USA (and Maine-) made items. One is made in Malaysia, and another in (I believe) Indonesia. They've actually held up for years. Alas, recently I bought the camp mocs, and they came unstitched after a couple weeks. So... I don't know if it's hit or miss, or if L.L. Bean originally decided to cut costs only so much, and have now gone with even more cost-cutting measures, using factories which are especially low-quality or use especially low-quality materials. I'm sure there ARE some good Chinese-made items (and El Salvadoran items) but I'm sure that there is also a range of quality, depending on what companies are willing to pay.
If I'm really tight for money and I need something immediately, I am willing to take a chance on an imported item. It may be good, and with L.L. Bean (and the fact that I have an outlet nearby and can return any items there) the guarantee gives me confidence, because I can always return it or exchange it.
I'm not sure if assumptions of lower-quality in imported (and non-European items) are based on ethnocentrism... I think it's an acknowledgement of the fact that there are much more lax labor laws in other countries. (Although admittedly there are sweatshops in the US, too, so USA-made doesn't always mean high-quality.)
I love the picture of you petting the dog, and the one of the dog chasing the turkey. Hope the turkey got away!
Cheers,
Bitsy
Regarding the duffel, Bowties and Boatshoes posted about a canvas and leather one a few weeks back. I know nothing about the brand but it appears to be high quality.
http://bowtiesandboatshoes.com/?p=3063#more-3063
My Dear Muffy:
We at “Sweaters Anonymous” have a Thirteen Step program that I highly recommend. It includes Lanolin patches to wean you off your addiction.
On a lighter note, the shoe-sizing problem comes from shoes being built on European sized lasts and then labeling them with U. S. sizes. If done correctly, it is not too much of an issue... There always has been a problem with some manufacturers (even men’s) sizing large for vanity reasons. I have shoes running from 10.5 (Allen Edmonds) to 12 (Timberland). I find buying shoes on the Net just too problematic. The physician in the family taught me that shoes are medical appliances and ones of low quality will ruin your back etc.
On the issue of Chinese Goods, I have seen a vast range of quality in Cashmere products. I have had the misfortune touching a sweater at Saks (house brand) and being shocked to see that it was Cashmere and not Shetland wool. On the other hand, I have had the occasion to check the accuracy of a $20 Chinese caliper against a set of the finest American micrometers. It was dead on. As Bonaparte said, “Let China sleep, for when she awakens the world will tremble” (History will redeem Nixon).
As for “Foyle’s War”, I want his driver’s phone number.
You should ask “Privilege” about “Piedmont”.
All the best,
Prep West
I seen pictures on the web of the J.Press 'Shaggy Dog' Shetland wool sweaters, do they come up larger than the stated size and which colors would for a man?
Thanks
May I suggest a leather duffle from a fine company in our neighbors to the North, Roots? The choices are within your reader's range of $300-$400, and are made in Canada from Italian leather. I have bought from them since the Seventies when I was in college in Boston, have found their clothes and leather goods meet my time-test (I still have items from then), and am fortunate they have a store in Southern California. While perhaps not "classic prep," Roots certainly sets forth a traditional style. And the American ex-pats who run the company have instilled a good business ethic since inception.
Duluth Pack has lovely leather duffle bags, made in the USA.
Regarding the leather duffel/weekend bag question: I know LL Bean signature is generally a terrible brand, and I don't like pretty much everything they sell, but I can say I bought exactly the bag you're describing, and I love it. I'm a college student studying abroad right now, and I take trips all over europe every weekend and bring this bag with me every time. It's the perfect size, and very nice looking. The only downside is that the strap is a little too thin, but you can always buy a replacement strap.
http://www.llbean.com/llbeansignature/llb/shop/66606?subrnd=1&parentCategory=505942&feat=505942-sigtn&cat4=505907
I'm also a huge fan of the Vermont Originals hats. Complely obsessed.
Muffy, this is a bit off topic, but thank you for not using clip art and PR shots in your entries. Real is so much better than perfect!
The J Press Shaggy Dog's are quite bulky and sadly, having a small frame, I cannot myself wear them. I tried. I tried again. And then went and bought one from Marks and Spencer (not made in the UK) which is pretty good.
Sum
I'm going to miss my Bean Boots when I return to my tropical country for good after graduation. It does get very rainy at home, but humid so there's no need for the warmth the boot provides. Maybe I'll get the rubber moc.
When you previously posted about Vermont Originals it was before the holidays. I purchased a hat for everyone on my Christmas list and they were so well received.
Public Service Announcement!
Get your Eliza B.'s at 25% off this weekend. Coupon code on the website for everyone out here in the sticks.
(Local people, I am envious of you. It sounds like they are opening the doors for a grand blow out. Should be fun.)
Suggestion for Question 2: Right now at Brooks Brothers online, buy a men's or woman's outerwear item for $499 and over and receive a free leather duffel. I smell value...
Dear Bebe...great shout-out on behalf of Roots! I cannot agree more with you on the quality of their leather goods! In fact, I just purchased another pair of boots, and expect these to be around as long as my last pair, bought 25 years ago (they are still going strong, I have just had soles refurbished!). Roots keeps their prices reasonable and concentrate on a small selection of styles, rather than trying to jump on every trend going.
I have found Bean boots to be quite waterproof. The price for that is that my feet sweat. These boots don't seem to breathe. I seldom wear them for this reason.
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