Dressing for New England Winters

My Baxter State Parka from 1995 (aka my Joel Fleishman Jacket)

This has been an unusually cold and snowy winter. We have not even experienced the usual coastal bonus of having the snow cut by rain.  So last week's storm left us with close to four feet of snow on the ground, which meant we had to bring in men.

It took a backhoe, a plow and three men to deal with our driveway

Our carpenter/handyman spent half the day on various roofs, or if you prefer, rooves.

The chickens had to have Hoth-like tunnels dug for them.  

With weather like this you value, and count on, the staple garments.  Nothing keeps me warmer than my 15 year old L.L. Bean Baxter State Parka.  And having spent time in Baxter State Park in northern Maine, I can attest that it is aptly named.  Year after year, it does its job.

At night, I double up my Hanna Andersson long johns.  We like to keep the upstairs fairly brisk for sleeping, so each bed has two down comforters with white flannel comforter covers.

Our month-and-a-half old Men's L.L.Bean Zip-Front Wool-Lined Boots were taken out of action by some bad stitching

What surprisingly let us down this year were the new Men's L.L. Bean boots, which came unstitched at the heels only a month and a half into the season.  This was genuinely problematic as my husband and son then had to share the one good pair of boots.  Shoveling was done in shifts instead of in conjunction.  And Beans is currently out of stock in this and similar styles, so even their guarantee doesn't help much. 

We have many pairs of L.L. Bean Men's Flannel-lined khakis and these are worn every day (including by me).  These have served us well and are still going strong with no obvious signs of wear.

We are bracing for yet another storm in two days, but at least Sampson is enjoying his new view.

Dear Muffy - A January Roundup of Reader Questions

Good Evening Muffy,

I need your opinion on something.

I frequently wear my hair pulled back in a pony tail, but I don't like the look of just having a hair band, so I usually tie a gros grain ribbon around it in a bow. It's not a large bow and I use about a 1 1/2 inch ribbon. I also like the thin fabric or ribbon covered head bands that have the bow attached. The bow portion is also very small (my favorite is a beige Burberry head band).

At any rate, a friend recently told me that she overheard someone say that I should wear something more age appropriate. I was embarrassed, to say the least, at the suggestion. It made me consider, however, if wearing hair ribbons and head bands is not age appropriate for someone my age (40ish).

I've worn hair ribbons and head bands since as long as I can remember, so maybe I'm wrong here. I would love to know what your "Preppy" opinion is on this.

Regards.

My 84 year old mother's bling (Eliza B. headbands and Angela Moore bracelets).

One of the flag-raising terms for the over forty set (and I am 48) is "age appropriate".  Most "age-appropriate" wardrobes can, funnily enough, visually age one pre-maturarily.  Paradoxically, deliberately trying to look younger, via sartorial means, can do the same.

An ageless, timeless look, combined with functionality,  has always held the most appeal for me.  My 84 year old mother wouldn't dream of leaving the house without one of her trademark Eliza B. headbands as well as her Angela Moore bracelets, winter or summer.  To be sure, she gets her share of compliments from the under five set, but also from the young males bagging her groceries, and scores of strangers who shop her in the aisles and in town.  The common thread of all the compliments is how cheery and uplifting it looks.

Another example is one of the "grandest" of all grande dames, who was never seen, up until she died in her mid nineties, without a tiny grosgrain ribbon holding her tiny silver ponytail in place.   It was her trademark look.

I love headbands and ribbons, and regardless, you do what you like and what makes you feel good.

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Dear Muffy,

I'd like your opinion on whether sweater vests are preppy/ trad or not.

In Australia (where I hail from, and where they are also called "sleevelesses") preppy is an adjective commonly thrown around to describe them, but looking at pictures of people from American trad or prep circles I have only once ever seen them worn (and then by a girl).

Are sweater vests trad on men, and in what circumstances?  Thanks!


While I am not an expert on all things trad, I can say I am very fond of sweater vests.  I think they look especially good in lambswool and my favorite colors are Navy, Hunter, Burgundy, and Charcoal.  I also like them in cotton, but with a strong preference for Navy. 

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Dear Muffy,

My sister-in-law just announced that she's expecting her first child. For her baby shower she has asked that everyone bring some name suggestions. Do you have any guidelines for naming?


I may be too late but I always love to find good family last names and use them as first names. I gave my son four of them!  Cheers! 


You were just in time! Thank you so much. My sister in-law liked the family names I found with your advice.

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Dear Ms. Aldrich,

First of all, I would like to say that your blog is wonderful. I've learned so much from reading your posts and you have made me become a more stylish man. But I have just one question: why buy roomy oxford shirts rather than trim fit ones? I find that when worn under a sweater the silhouette is much better. It also doesn't help that I have a smaller frame (5'7" 140 lbs) and with regular fit oxfords, there is way too much ballooning around the waist. An answer from you on this matter would be much appreciated.


Hi Ms. M,

Regarding commandment #5: do you feel that those with a more slender physique should still wear a roomy OCBD? I have been wearing the Brooks Brothers OCBD in the Slim Fit (gasp), but I'm willing to try a more roomy fit as long as it does not look too billowy. I'm 6'4" and thin at 185 lb.


I vastly prefer shirts with a roomier fit,. both for the old school aesthetic, but also for function.  (And perhaps the aesthetic comes out of the function.)  I don't like clothing that restricts movement and  I think men risk looking more affected wearing trim-fit clothes.  Although it can favor some physiques today, I think looking back it will seem as dated as shoulder pads.  Having said all this (as always), if you like it and feel good in it, then you should wear it. While I like classics, there is a joy in being "of your time" that is, ultimately, inevitable.

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Dear Muffy,

Do you have any suggestions as to where I can find nice wool scarves.  What kind do you like and where can I find them?  Thank you!

I wear both lambswool Tartan Scarves as well as University Scarves and I get them both from the same source, a British shop,  Bridgham and Cook, in Freeport, Maine.  They are the real deal, made in the U.K.,  and are extremely reasonable in price.  I will occasionally pick up a Schoolboy Scarf from J.Press as well. 

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M-

I have recently been looking to pick up a Cable fishing style sweater, the particular sweater I have been looking at does not refer to it as such but I believe it would be appropriately described as an Aran knit pattern. I do not own any sweaters with a shawl collar and also avoid mock collars or anything other than v necks (in sweaters) for the most part with a few crewneck exceptions (almost anything other than v necks gets hung up on the collar of my OCBDs or polos). What are your thoughts on a man wearing a shawl collared sweater? I have seen many examples where they look as if the sweater could have been designed a hundred years ago and others where they make the wearer appear quite feminine.

Thank you for your thoughts.


I too have wrestled with what I think about this style sweater.  I never buy them for the men in my family or myself, which says something I suppose.  However, on many of the Scottish BBC shows I watch, including Hamish Macbeth and Monarch of the Glen, I see male characters wearing them and think they look terrific!  Perhaps this is a situation where you really just cannot get away with a lesser quality garment.

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Dear Miss Muffy,

I'm seventeen years old. I love your blog and there is not a day that goes by that I do not read it! I even keep notes from it in my purse when I go shopping. I am going off to college next year and I am trying to form my wardrobe. I share most of my clothes with my mom and my sister, so I am sort of starting my own from scratch. Although I have been raised wearing preppy clothes, I am trying to establish my own preppy, classic wardrobe, while still looking youthful and I tend to have an issue when I am shopping. I buy things because they are "cute" but then, when it comes to putting outfits together, I'm stuck. Being that I am a teenager, I am on quite a tight budget. If you happen to have a moment out of your busy schedule and it would be possible to help me with some suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much for reading this!


I completely understand your dilemma. It seems like one either has a choice of something "cute" as you say, or something uninspiring and dreary.

To start, what I often look for are items that are fairly classic and simple in style, but come in some great, bright colors like hot pink, kelly green, and my favorite, navy and khaki. I think the best buys are at the outlets. If you can get to a Polo Ralph Lauren outlet, that is where I would start. Sign up for their coupons, and then, if possible, combine those with a sale. I find the Ralph Lauren shirts and sweaters to be of very good quality and wear well. You might even try the Gap outlet. I haven't been there in years, but if I needed some basics, I would probably give it a look.

Lands' End and Lands' End Canvas can have some great markdowns, and if you sign up for emails, you can often get free shipping. I can't remember the last time I paid for shipping there. I used to get a lot of tops from Hanna Andersson, because of their fabulous colors and simple designs, but lately they also have been heading down the cute path. But I still look, especially at sale time.

One can also get away with more plain basics if one pairs them with accessories that "pop" like bags, headbands, bracelets, etc.

If I can think of anything else, I will let you know.  Thanks again so much for writing. If you find anything good, I would love to know. 


Hi Miss Muffy,

Thank you so much! I really appreciate all of your input. My midterms just ended so I will be going up north to the outlets on my long weekend and I will definitely use your advice. If I find anything good, I will certainly e-mail you!

Have a wonderful weekend!  Thank you again!

Preppy Companies on My Radar, 2011

As I think about vendors, they seem to follow a certain life cycle.  So I thought it would be interesting to create a "straw man" chart mapping this. This is in no way complete or conclusive.

The premise of the chart is that vendors go through various stages, from the entrepreneurial crucible stage on the left to the all-but-dead company shell on the right. Each of these stages can be summarized by the three independent variables of quality, marketshare, and PR spend. (These lines represent high level abstractions of general trends, and may not apply to every vendor as positioned).

Some notes. Companies go through at different speeds. Some companies stay in one spot. Some companies “begin” in the middle of the chart.  The positioning of the companies on this chart are where I see each of them today. Your mileage may vary.

Here are the stages and clusters:

Crucible

• New company serves demanding clients in authentic environments significantly better then competitors
• Company’s founder is hands on
• People often love the products without necessarily recognizing the company that made it (i.e. "this is my favorite hat" said by an owner of a Vermont Originals hat without knowing the name "Vermont Originals.")

Precious

• Fiercely passionate customers, who are "in the know," are very  loyal to the company
• The company has significantly higher prices than competitors 
• Quality is paramount
• Customers can still call or email and get the owner (and often work through any problems)

Iconic

• Company is iconic, with widely recognized popular and unique items
• Great pride is taken in the brand
• Items are expensive, but high quality
• New items are extensions of old
• Companies gain increasing brand recognition well beyond passionate base

New Markets

• Often new management
• Purge of old employees and suppliers/branded vendors
• Take the customer base for granted - many loyal customers find themselves buying less and less
• Leverage the look and the feel of the brand
• Vendors open mall stores, for example

Cash Grab

• There is significant confusion for traditional customers
• Some classics remain (but fewer and fewer)
• There are wild fluctuations of prices (higher prices, then massive sales)
• New products are low quality and relatively expensive
• The companies increasingly outsource production to low-cost providers
• They have giant PR budgets, first trying to differentiate themselves from their past, then relentlessly trying to invoke it (and readily making stock photos available to bloggers)
• Customers start to experience return-fatigue
• There is a big opportunity for upper management to personally cash in with a one-time windfall, sacrificing long-term employees

Company Shell

• Companies are no longer differentiated in the marketplace
• They bear no resemblance to their original selves

Company Notes

Virtually every product sold by the companies in the two categories on the left are made in the United States.  Contrast that to the companies on the right.  In the middle, J.Press, Barbour and Orvis have a mix, with a good amount made in the UK.

• Vineyard Vines has gone through this cycle incredibly quickly.  
• Leather Man Ltd has reasonable prices despite straddling the Crucible/ Precious categories.
• L.L. Bean is peering into the abyss.  I can now only buy six items from L.L. Bean with any confidence: Norwegian Sweaters; Boat and Totes; Bean Boots; Chamois Shirts; Flannel Shirts; Ragg Socks.  It is worth noting that none of these are made in China and the socks, bags and boots are all US made.
• Ralph Lauren is still one of the few companies where women can still find truly classic items, and quality remains good.
• Barbour is dancing with the devil.  They don't want to be any more to the right than they currently are.
• It is not surprising that Sperry Topsider and L.L. Bean Signature share the same PR firm, LaForce + Stevens.
  

Let me end with two premises.

• First, over a twenty five year time span, there will always be classic khakis, shirts, and shoes available.  But their availability at any moment in time is suspect and unpredictable, thus savvy customers buy ahead.

• One must let go of old favorites,  as well as look for new and promising companies.

As I said, this chart is a straw-man/stalking horse. It is not based on, nor is it, rigorous analysis, and should not be used as such. In other words, this whole chart is IMO.

 My husband used to work at Gartner as an analyst and helped me with this chart.

The Circle of Life, Part 1

My father's tartan cashmere scarf, which he purchased at Langrock's in New Haven.

I have been the grateful recipient over the years of so many items handed down from family members and close friends.  This includes paintings, silver and old jewelry, but also more simple things like books, wood bins and kitchen bowls.

And inevitably when I use or simply look at these items, I think of the person from whom I got them.  I appreciate almost every time their taste, commitment to quality, and generosity. 

Each time I throw my red tartan scarf around my neck (as I did this morning filling our bird feeder), or glance at his now unused pipes, I am connected with my late father.  The textures and smells remind me of him (insert Proust reference here).

 I now wear my mother's Burberrys trench, which we purchased 36 years ago at Burberrys, NYC.  The chair and mirror were also handed down.

I am grateful to my parents for long ago purchasing items that I can still use today.  And, even more wonderful, the items themselves, almost totemically, recall happy memories of going with my parents at an early age to great places.

 Two of my father's many pipes that he bought with me at Alfred Dunhill in New York 

 My mother's Ghurka handbag, which we selected together in 1976 (you can almost make out the unique registration number in the corner).

I needed to visit my local tack shop for some Lexol for the leather.

This is what was waiting for me one day at the home of our old and dear friend CWC III.

There is a higher standard with which I treat these gifts.  I never give away what has been given.   I have spent hours happily removing a few spots or mending a few loose buttons over the years.

One item I recently took out of the closet was my father's G9.

 My father and husband both bought their G9s from Huntington, whose catalog page we happened to have saved.

My father in his, at Pemaquid Point, Maine in 1990.

 My father capturing the playful torment bestowed upon my mother by CWC III, a ritual enjoyed to this day.

My son, as of this year, is now wearing my father's G9. While a new one is available at O'Connell's, I am confident this one will continue to serve our family for quite a bit longer.

Reader Question: Going out to eat at Stony Creek Market, Red's Eats, Moody's Diner, and Round Pond Harbor

Dear Muffy, 

This may sound silly, but when you go out to eat, what kind of places are your favorites?    Thanks!


My favorite meal to get out is breakfast, or next, lunch.  I am not a fan of sitting inside for long stretches, and I am not overly fond of  being waited on.  Ideally there is outdoor seating during at least three of the seasons.  And I also like to plan eating out as an enabler of a trip out, not the destination itself.

Given that, here are some examples of places we have frequented over the decades.

Stony Creek Market, Stony Creek, Connecticut

For one of the best views on the Connecticut Shore

I used to have friends living down in Stony Creek, Connecticut, so we often would go together for breakfast at the Stony Creek Market. 

Here, you always get an interesting mix, with local celebrities and Yale faculty waiting in line behind boat mechanics and quarry workers. 

 Off season and off-hours, it can be very quiet. But both indoor and outdoor seating fills up quickly during peaks.

And one can walk after the meal along the piers and beaches, watching the activity around the famed Thimble Islands.

Red's Eats, Wiscasset, Maine

The perennial recipient of "Best Lobster Roll in New England" (they have our vote), Red's Eats proves that even places that attract tourists can have enduring and earned appeal to the locals.

It is best to go off-peak, as lines are both long and slow moving.

As well as being on the Sheepscot River, Red's Eats' seating is next to traffic, which seams like a negative but  surprisingly is a critical part of the Red's experience. And they get some great vehicles going by, including logging trucks and boat hauling. 

Round Pond Harbor, Round Pond, Maine

Round Pond Harbor provides two of my favorite places to eat, Buddy's Round Pond Lobster and Dan's Muscungus Bay Lobster.

Buddy's

Both are non-fussy, with outside-only seating, rolls of paper towels, and the absolute freshest lobster and steamers possible.  You can watch your food being hauled out of the water.

Moody's Diner, Waldoboro, Maine

While Moody's neither has outside seating nor is it by the water, it is, well, Moody's, and it epitomizes authenticity, graciousness and stewardship (they think of customers and employees in terms of, not seasons or years, but generations). 

Featured on the cover on Life Magazine in the 1950s, little has changed here.

Once when pre-ordering their chocolate cream pies, as I usually do, the pies weren't quite cooled enough to transfer to their take-out containers when I arrived to pick them up.  Their immediate solution was to simply give them to me in their own pans, just asking that I could return them to the restaurant next time I was driving by.  There were no names exchanged; no deposits given; just working off of the honor system.

And as cliche as it sounds, we actually have seen a moose out the window while eating.