Wednesday, February 8, 2012

A Walk Through New Haven, Connecticut




New Haven, Connecticut. is one of the most interesting New England cities with many places to visit and see.   It is dominated by Yale,  of course,  but is also one of the oldest cities. It was founded in 1638, led by puritans Davenport and Eaton.



The Yale Rep was started just a year before Long Wharf Theatre, and together they built New Haven's reputation for "serious" productions.
 

Louis Lunch advertises itself as home to the very first "hamburger sandwich" in 1900.
Chapel and College, the heart of New Haven.
The United Methodist Church (1849, by New Haven Native Henry Austin)
The New Haven Green is part of  a designated National Historic Landmark District,  still owned and maintained by the descendants of the original settlers.  
Center Church is one of the three on the New Haven Green. Center Church was built from 1812-1815, based on London church, St Martin-in-the-Fields, which was inspired by the works of Sir Christopher Wren.  
In true old Yankee fashion, the Congregationalists bickered and ended up splitting and building two different churches side by side, United and Center.

 
Yale Visitor Center (the Old Faculty Club)

 The Graduate Club.

 Yale's chapel, Battell Chapel (1874), is a Victorian Gothic brownstone which most agree is not terribly attractive, either inside or out. (What they needed was H.H. Richardson, who designed Trinity Church in Boston.)
 
 
 
 

One can not miss J. Press.
 
Wooster Street, arguably home to some of this country's best, authentic, Italian food also should not be missed.
The Very Famous Pepe's
They make outstanding pizza, as only those in New Haven can, and also have the longest peels.
While waiting for our pies, we went a few doors down.  If you want extraordinary Italian pastries, Libby's, since 1922, is the place to go. 


Just about anywhere else, these items would cost twice as much and be half as good.

 

 


39 comments:

Gwennie said...

Being a proud Wisconsinite, I believe that Seymour, WI is the birthplace of the hamburger. Charlie Nagreen started selling them in 1885. http://homeofthehamburger.org/

Muffy Aldrich said...

Gwennie - Great comment. I put in a qualifier. Let the battle continue!

John said...

Apparently the Yankees weren't the only ones to have those early congregational dust-ups. In my Virginia town, we have two Episcopal parishes a block apart, owing to some forgotten 19th-century dispute. But we get along fine now. In the summer we even play softball together, although that may be because there simply aren't enough Anglicans to compete against the local evangelical hordes.

A similar pipe shop called Mincer's used to operate on the University Corner in Charlottesville, but in the 1960s they were forced to diversify into books and records as pipes fell out of vogue. Today the store still operates in the same location under the Mincer's banner, but now they only sell UVA-imprinted sweats, tees, and other gear. The world has certainly changed!

Princess Freckles said...

All I can think about now is pizza! Yum! Looks like a lovely visit. I'd love to explore New Haven someday...and eat some pizza!

Main Line Sportsman said...

Wonderful photo tour. I will be in Middletown CT next weekend when one of my boxers is fighting there...was considering a trip to Louis and J. Press. Thanks for the extra incentive.

Jersey Prep said...

With an Autumn trip planned, I am even more excited with these add-ons to my itinerary! Thank you for your fabulous posts!

sailormadras said...

It was always a big deal to go to New Haven when I was a kid , I guess being from old lyme it seemed like the BIG CITY! we always finished the day at Pepe's poking around J Press the co-op and the book store, I always love the pics, your saving me plane tickets!

Greenfield said...

Splitting churches isn't the half of it! The rugged terrain of the Town of Redding, CT finally got settled in earnest in the late 1600's when some of my Congregationalist ancestors decided the Episcopalians had annexed too big a piece of it; they moved up from Fairfield en masse and made darn sure they evened up the balance. However, it's still the landmark Episcopal church that crowns the ridgeline as you drive up Rt. 58 today . . .

Grace said...

I have a plans to visit New Haven this fall and am really excited! The J. Press looks wonderful!

Sartre said...

My grandmother, who was from Fairfield CT, always called them "hamburgs."

John said...

Reading Sartre's comment triggers what I think is a memory that when I was a child in Boston in the 1950's we used to say hamburg, cheeseburg, and frankfurt, not hamburger, cheeseburger, or frankfurter.

HHH said...

Louie's Lunch="the place where Louie dwells," as in "From the tables down at Mory's to the place where Louie dwells" from the Whiff's Song. Until they were too old to get there, my father met his 3 best friends at Louie's every week for lunch. HHH

Reggie Darling said...

I agree that New Haven is a most admirable New England city. I loved it as an undergraduate at Yale in the 1970s, when it was a gritty and impoverished former manufacturing center, and am pleased to see how it has prospered since then. One of the things that I most appreciate about New Haven is the successful planting and maturation of trees on the city's streets. Known as the "Elm City" before the Dutch Elm disease stripped it of its fabled elm-lined streets in the 1960s, when I was an undergraduate at Yale New Haven's streets were largely devoid of trees. Since then, due to a concerted planting effort by the city and Yale, and the passage of time, New Haven is once again a leafy burg, graced by many large and healthy trees lining its avenues. A wonderful development, indeed. RD

Anonymous said...

Does this mean you've taken sides in the great Sally/Pepe rivalry? My old boss at Yale maintained that one's choice in this matter is deeply revelatory of character. I had a very confusing encounter at one of them, since (unbeknownst to me), mozzarella is pronounced "mutts" in New Haven.

The green is beautiful, and always lively thanks to its denizens. Whenever I walk through it alone, though, I try to forget that it's a graveyard.

Parnassus said...

New Haven is looking great. When I lived there, I loved exploring the neighborhoods, squares and especially the old houses.

Don't forget Modern Apizza on State Street--a little walk, but it was a favorite.

Wharf Rat said...

As usual, marvelous article and photos. Thanks for the memories!

For those of you planning a trip to New Haven for the first time, you unfortunately need to know that you will be in one of the highest crime rate areas in the US.

Please be very careful. A local student was murdered in front of the Yale museum as an innocent pedestrian.

In trips to JP in my last years there, I would park at a meter on York street, and the staff at JP would send out an employee to watch my car while I was in the store.

Don't assume that you will be visiting a bucolic college community.

Casey said...

Fantastic! New Haven rarely gets the credit it deserves. And my son has been requesting a trip into New York to visit Ferrara's. I think we'll stop in at Libby's instead.

Cranky Yankee said...

I'm going to guess that your father smoked Balkan Sobranie.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@John - I was looking forward to going in until I saw three men just sitting and smoking cigars. Things change indeed.

@Princess Freckles - The pizza is so good there. I think New Haven is the best I have tasted.

@Main Line Sportsman - You will be going right by, assuming you will take 91 to Middletown. Just bring your GPS!

@Jersey Prep - Fall is probably my favorite time to visit.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@Sailor Madras - It was the big city compared to the bucolic Old Lyme! Yes, we always went to the Co-op. They had the best book selection downstairs.

@Greenfield - Ha! I love it!

@Grace - College visits? Have a great time!

@Sartre and John - This was startling. I had totally forgotten that until my early adulthood, I had always called it a hamburg, and had no idea that it was wrong! It must have been a New England thing.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@HHH - It shouldn't surprise me that you can quote the Whiffenpoofs! Lovely memory.

@Reggie - I could not agree with you more. The trees make a huge difference in the look and feel and I wish more towns and cities would make a similar effort.

@Anonymous 1:39 - No sides, although we seemed to go to Sally's more often when I was younger. Yes, The Crypt - Benedict Arnold's wife is buried there.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@Parnassus - We cannot forget Modern, or Grand!

@Wharf Rat - As always, you are exactly right. It is no Princeton! I know the city so well, (i.e. exactly where NOT to go) that I forget that others would not.

@Casey - I agree, and as Wharf Rat points out, the crime can often overshadow its assets.

@Cranky Yankee - That certainly sounds familiar - I will have to ask my mother. I do remember that Mr. St. John used to have his own special blends.

Cranky Yankee said...

Do you remember when this parody hit the web? Ouch!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYRF5-zdY8Q

Tom Conroy said...

I remember several years ago meeting Mrs. Elizabeth Kubler (one of the founders of Long Wharf Theater in New Haven). The Anchor Bar on College Street happened to come up in our conversation and she went in to a long story about saying goodbye to her children in front of the Taft Hotel. She was in tears and Thornton Wilder (Dear Thornton) was standing by to comfort her and offered to take her for a drink. I asked "Where did he take you?" She said: Well, The Anchor, of course." I think it is still there, located next to the tobacco shop on College Street. Incredible juke box. Decent comfort food. A great lady and a great story. Only in New Haven kids, Only in New Haven.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@Cranky Yankee - Very funny! Thank you!

@Tom Conroy - What a small world. Yes, The Anchor is still there, and it was Mrs. Kubler who invited my father to be on the board of Long Wharf. We also knew her son as well as Mr. Wilder's niece, now in Maine. Mrs. Kubler was quite a woman indeed!

binker said...

Is there a specific reason that one corner is named after Desmund Tutu? That has to have been fairly recent ...relatively speaking.

Yale is no more violent than U of Penn. Penn was horrid. Every side was a ghetto except for the side the river was on. Since it is not a gated campus, they even had alarm buttons to push in the bathrooms. Even in recent years, there have been shootings outside the dorms.

Although I have been to several crew races and soccer games at Yale, I have never really seen the campus before. I think the crew races were pretty far from the school. It's hard..unless you are Princeton, to get a lake built for you in such a convenient location ;).

Paula said...

Italien pastry windows are the sweetest and lushest of all pastries windows.

I would like to ask one question - having reaad Paul Fussell's book "Class", where he mentions hairstyles:

Do you remember at what age you wore your hair the way you wear it today?

I recently changed my hairstyle from long hair back to a bob-haircut (chin-kength) and shortly after that I read Fussell's book "Class" where he also covers hair. Fussell says: Upper class women wear their hair in the way they styled their hair during their college years. I realised that the bob is the hairstyle I had when I entered college and now, age 39, I returned to this style for the first time in 22 years! Just what Fussell Well, except that I don't belong to the upper class ;-)

Long story short, if it is not too silly to ask, I would love know more about your hairstyle/s dating back from collage years up to today.

greetings from Vienna/Austria
Paula

Muffy Aldrich said...

@Paula - I started out as a little girl wearing my hair in braids, but mostly because it worked well with my riding. When I was around 13 years old I started going every two months into New York City and started having it cut to about the length it is now. I followed one hairdresser, Kerry Resnick, around Manhattan for about ten years, from Pipino Buccheri to La Coupe (where Louis Licari also did some highlights). I have pretty much kept it at the same length, although somewhere in my mid-teens he convinced me to go shorter with a more dramatic cut, which solicited reactions from strangers on the streets of NYC and in Bergdorfs asking who did my hair. That was short-lived, and by the time I got to college it was shoulder length again. For much of my twenties I used Liberty scarves to tie my hair back, a look I may just start again.

Paula said...

Thank you for the "picture behind the picture". I am one of those who solicites women in the street, preferably at the gym!!, who styles their hair.
Those women are the best guarantee. I bet I would have asked you, too, back then.
Again, thank you for answering my question!

JES said...

Too true about the chapel at Yale. At Columbia, we're lucky to have the lovely St. Paul's Chapel, designed by I.N. Phelps Stokes, http://www.columbia.edu/cu/earl/chapel.html

Beth said...

Muffy, enjoyed the recent 'hair' discussion. I, too wear mine pulled back but don't have the gentle lift that
yours has. Do you do anything special to get that.?
Have considered teasing, rolling, etc. Suggestions are
welcome and so needed. Would love to see the Liberty
scarf tie- back look you mentioned. Also----your thoughts
on the appropriateness of a bow or ribbon for someone
65. Your classic style is so attractive. Thank you.

Anonymous said...

Most Mainers seems to call the meat from which hamburgers are formed "hamburg." The sandwiches themselves are hamburgers, but a topping option for pizza is "hamburg." And they would order "a pound of hamburg" at the meat counter. I have to say it drives me crazy. I'm a native Mainer (Maineiac, I like to say) but my parents are from Boston, and we call the meat in any of its non-sandwich forms hamburger. And of course, the sandwiches are hamburgers.

Anonymous said...

I know exactly what Paula is talking about, but I think Fussell means that upper-class women tend to stay with one hairstyle from college on, not return later in life to their college look.

oxford cloth button down said...

I am jealous of that jacket every time I see it. I love the pics as always, great post!

doubleb said...

Love the Monograms, yes. Labels, No approach. I just got back my Christmas present from my cobbler after having him remove the brand badge from the front and replace it with a monogrammed leather tag.

Muffy Aldrich said...

@Beth - I believe that at any age, (and especially after 65!) one should wear whatever pleases them. My 85 year old mother wears a pink and green woven Eliza B. headband every day, and receives a constant stream of compliments, from all ages.

Beth said...

Muffy,
Thank you for your response----to which I totally agree!

Fred Johnson said...

Born and raised in New Haven and still there (West Haven). All of the places you visited are old friends to me and its good to see them in your blog. Only place left for good OCBD's is JP. Love your blog and sorry I missed you wandering around town.

Anonymous said...

Muffy,
I strongly agree with the idea of buying clothing of quality that endure. I try my best to follow this philosophy throughout all aspects of my life. I try to make choices that will benefit in the long run. I consider you the "preppy authority" and wanted to ask you a question I have been pondering for a while. My friends often tell me that I am "preppy", however I am I Irish Catholic and live in a suburb of Chicago. Is it possible to consider myself a prep if I do not live on the East Coast, go to an Ivy League School, have a large family name and am not a "WASP"? I regard your opinion highly and look forward to hearing back from you.