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One of the most significant shaping influences on the city is, of course, its port. Portsmouth Harbor is one of the deepest harbors and the waters of the Piscataqua are fast flowing.
Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, the nation's first federal shipyard, was established in 1800. It services our country's submarines and produced over seventy of them during World War II. (Maine and New Hampshire have been sparring seemingly forever over its jurisdiction and The Supreme Court heard the case in 2002.)
| There is an active Coast Guard presence... |
...for this "official port of entry and foreign trade zone".
For us, Portsmouth is a good place to meet up with family, and we also just spend time here when we can.
The city is small, almost intimate (only about 3,000 people larger than Concord Massachusetts), which is part of its charm.
After the famous fires at the beginning of the nineteenth century, which destroyed so many wooden structures, the rebuilding was of brick and slate for roofs.
A mindfulness of the environment (if gently hypocritical) is nonetheless a good indicator of the culture.
Post Civil War, Portsmouth began earning its reputation for its ale making. In fact, it has been said that the original New Englanders did not drink water, but - adults and children - preferred beer instead. (And the first regional toast was made by Captain Thomas Wannerton in 1639.) Cambridge attorney, Andy Crouch, an expert on New England breweries, tellingly used the Portsmouth brewery Smuttynose for the cover of his book "The Good Beer Guide to New England."
And here is where I will lose some of any "prep cred" I might have. I don't drink. This is not for any particular reason, but it serves as yet another place for the amusement of friends. One New Englander (whose name would be familiar to all of those here), after reading my blog account of a Christmas party in the City, included this in an email:
But the "Coca-Cola/I didn't inhale" argument. I don't think so. Ms Aldrich was working on some kind of stout. Probably doing some serious napping on her way back to swamp yankee land.
One of my favorite sites here is of the Moran Tugboats. In fact, I check on them daily with the Tugboat Cam.
Portsmouth remains a charming small city, and I always look forward to my next visits.
** Genealogy Alert! ***
For those who find the topic of genealogy insufferable or simply boring, I have collected it all at the end of this entry in this handy, easy-to-skip section.
One of the originals settlers was our 10th great grandfather Edward Hilton, often called the Father of New Hampshire.
And of course the most colorful one of all was the Cambridge educated Reverend Stephen Bachilor/Batchelder. He had quite the reputation, marrying a third wife who was sixty years younger than he. She then carried on with the young fellow next door, for which she was sentenced to be flogged and branded.
Portsmouth was originally named Strawbery Banke by direct ancestor Captain Walter Neale in 1630, who was sent by Georges and Mason to be the Governor of the Piscataqua. Neale is credited for discovering the White Mountains and Lake Winnipesaukee as well. And we cannot forget Daniel Webster, only indirect, but four different ways (via Eastmans as well as Websters) who, while born in Franklin, practiced law here.
The Strawbery Banke Historic District and museum (organized in the 1950s) features roughly 50 restored historic structures on about twelve acres. Along with the museum owned buildings that are always open (in season), some of these structures are privately owned and used, but still occasionally opened to the public.
Early morning and off-season is a pretty good time to be here.

31 comments:
I so look forward to your New England Atlas posts. They give me wonderful ideas for exploring during summer vacations with the children.
And I love genealogy, currently researching my own New England roots.
Thank you for the great photos Muffy (once again)! I used to work for a software company in Manchester, NH and had the pleasure of spending a lot of time exploring Portsmouth. Might I ask what future towns you plan on highlighting? Any plans on visiting Providence, RI?
I'm sure you're aware of this, but some of the homes at Stawberry Banke are being carefully renovated and offered for private lease to help fund the museum, see: http://www.theheritagehouses.org.
These photos have convinced me to go back to Portsmouth. I went to camp just once, for 2 months. Afterwards, I went directly to stay with my childhood best friend at his family's house on Rye Beach. After the sensory deprivation of seeming eternity trapped in a cabin in the woods, our trips into town to Portsmouth were like going to the carnival.
It must take a great deal of patience to be a teetotaler among preps! I drink, but at prep gatherings I realize how much of an amateur I am.
P.S.: I'm sure you know the nauseatingly-named Blue State Coffee, formerly the Publick Cup, on York St. They have a similar three hole recycling system, but no one seems to be able to figure out what goes where, including the staff
Looks like it was a beautiful day in Portsmouth!
a most enjoyable post-great pix
max
Another must see New England town...my list is getting quite long. Thank you Muffy!
Portsmouth is gorgeous, and I have a very similar set of photos I took recently when I decided to "document" local places (with the same eye/attention/effort I give to foreign cities.) I often think that if cities like Portsmouth were unfamiliar to me, I would find them as fascinating as strange cities, and so I am trying to develop that fascination.
Were you there today, 4/21? I noted on the local news that a portion of Memorial Bridge was being taken away today, and apparently people came from near and far to see this spectacle (and "piece of history,") but I assume that is not the case with you.
One interesting thing to note, though, is that a number of businesses in Portsmouth (including Breaking New Grounds) started in Portland, Maine first. I'll see something cool in Portland, and then a few years later, I'll see that it has opened up in Portsmouth. Flatbread Company is another example.
Ah well, you'll certainly be healthier and probably thinner for not drinking, although it's hard to wrap my head around it. :-) (And, the Portsmouth Brewery has some GREAT brews.. good pub food, too.) Actually I was once in a relationship with a man who did not drink... again, for no real reason (not health issues, not religion.) I suspect and I think he said as much that he preferred to remain in complete control of himself at all times, which really makes a lot of sense. And since he didn't make a big deal of it or about others drinking, I soon forgot he didn't drink.
I, of course, am always interested in your genealogy, since I have come to know so much of my own. The more I learn about your family, the more I am certain while we may be distant or indirect relations, there is a connection somewhere. Especially given how... er... "blessed" with offspring the Pooles were, it is a near certainty that a connection exists by blood or by marriage. With the number colonial governors and legislators in both of our families, it's really just a matter of time, methinks.
...and I'm always interested in naval history and Supreme Court cases. Put them together? Nice.
My hometown area and so proud to still live near. I am so proud to be a Seacoast, NH native.
Portsmouth is a wonderful small city, I enjoyed your post.
I spent a lot of time in Portsmouth last summer when I was at our Maine house and absolutely love the city! It's so charming and has some really great shops downtown.
Muffy,
Nice photo essay of Portsmouth,NH! As I had mentioned to you my grandmother Chase grew up in Newington, NH the town next door to Portsmouth. One of my grand mother's relatives served on the Civil war naval ship the USS Kearsarge that sank the confederate raider off the coast of France. Also her ancestors go back to Plymouth rock settlers.
Excellent post Muffy, a really day it must've been at Portsmouth.
This is off topic, but do you know of where one can get a peter-pan collar blouse? I haven't seen any around since... a long time ago and the ones I've got are looking really worn.
Re: Genealogy
I should make a point to get his full name, but there is an Aldrich portrait hanging by the first floor elevator at the Union Club in Boston. No doubt another relative.
I remember the (for donation) summer theatre series there. Great memories of picnic dinners and plays in Prescott Park...right along the water. That, the 4th on the Esplanade (before it became so commercialized!) were wonderful time.
@ Anonymous, Land's End--I really really hate to send you there, and it really should only be a last resort, but that's the only place I've noticed a Peter Pan collar in the last decade.
Loved the post and the wonderful photographs!
So glad to see you back!
Your Portsmouth pictures were lovely! We enjoy driving down from Portland every now and then - it's such a darling town. Thank you for your Salt Cellar recommendation! We're looking forward to a trip to Portsmouth this week to visit Black Trumpet Bistro for the first time, and we'll have to allow some time to stop by the Salt Cellar.
The Nutter House made my day . . .
couldn't make that up!
Several summers ago my family and I had the pleasure of staying at the venerable Wentworth by the sea on New Castle island, NH. This grand dame of a hotel was saved from the wrecking ball by Marriott. It has been restored to its virtually original splendor. New Castle island itself is a charming place a stones throw from Rye Beach and Portsmouth.
A better documentation of my home town couldn't have been made; thanks. Portsmouth really is an under-appreciated gem of a city. Spring is a wonderful time to visit for I fear that the Port City is getting to the point of being over visited by tourists in the summer months.
Cheers!
With regard to the genealogy section: I am related to John Cutt, first president of New Hampshire. Cutt was "a wealthy merchant" who lived "in great splendor" near Market and Russell Streets in Portsmouth; a moat surrounded his mansion, and a portcullis was drawn up at night to guard against marauding Indians and thieves. Cutt was credited with preventing the closing of Harvard College when in 1669 he and his brother pledged "£60 per annum for seven years" in order to "stem the loud Groanes of yr sinking Colledge in its present low estate." I love that.
What is interesting is that according to my notes, Cutt was the son of Richard Cutt "of Strawberry Bank, England." It is not impossible that the town in NH was named after the town in England (which is I believe near Bath) -- a frequent practice at the time.
If you get a chance, visit Strawberry Banke during the Candlelight Stroll - magical.
@Sartre - Your John Cutt was a brother to Clark's Richard and Robert. It is not impossible that Strawbery Banke was named after the town in England, although I believe it was named in 1630(ish) and the Cutt brothers came over after 1640. But I may be wrong.
@Patsy - Yes, you are so right -it is magical, and on our calendar for this year with three generations of Neals (Neales).
Well we are related! I'm related to William Hilton!
I wonder how many readers of The Daily Prep are distant relatives, since so many of us seem to trace our ancestry back to the Great Migration of the 1630s.
@Joseph A. Fredericks - That is so nice of you to say. Thank you! It is a gem.
@Bitsy - I have wondered that myself! Many readers have shared their family history with me privately, which of course I love, and there have been many overlaps.
Thanks for a wonderful post on Portsmouth Muffy. Although I live in Colorado Portsmouth is a place I always make an effort to visit when in the area. Relating to your "New England Atlas" I am moving to Maine this fall. Do you have any "must see" towns, etc. in Maine?
I have been waiting for a post on Portsmouth from you after seeing the Portsmouth Brewery sign on your Tumblr. After passing by here and looking down on the city from 95, we finally decided to explore the place several years ago. We stop every time we are going to and from Maine and it is certainly one of my favorite towns of all time. Thanks for the great photos Muffy.
Nice to read you enjoy Moran tugboats. My husband and I are both Mainers, but he works for Moran New York. He is first mate on the Catherine. I've used the tracking website before, when he was on other boats making longer journeys to FL and LA.
Take care!
@KD - What an interesting job that must be! And I'll bet the Catherine was also built in East Boothbay. Now I'll have to look that up. I find those tugboats absolutely fascinating.
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