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| Chowder at Newport's Black Pearl |
I have been asked, what is the preppiest food? It could easily be New England Clam Chowder. Admittedly, the preppy culture's contribution to the world has not been overly gastronomical, so it may win this moot court simply by default. However, a better case can be made. It is traditional. It tastes best using fresh, local ingredients. It can be served on the dock or at a wedding. Or, ideally, at a wedding on the dock.
And it invites conversation. One of the oldest and most hotly debated New England questions is "What kind of clam chowder is the best?" This can elicit not only the digging up of old recipes, but a weekend-long road trip to taste samples first hand.
Some swear by Cappy's in Camden.
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| Cappy's, 1991 |
Others say Black Pearl in Newport serves the best.
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| At the Black Pearl |
Some inevitably prefer the "variety" that was first created in Rhode Island, and was the subject of such state-wide pride that they quickly named it "Manhattan Clam Chowder." But this "chowder" was so offensive to so many New Englanders that in 1939 a bill was put forth in the state of Maine that would have made calling clam chowder made with tomatoes illegal. It came close to passing. (Some New Yorkers deny all knowledge of it, and swear they've been framed, wrote CooksInfo.com). I agree with the position that puts this in the soup category.
There are many foods I could give up. New England clam chowder simply isn't one of them.
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| We enjoyed our chowder today with some cider. |
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| Life Post Crown Pilots |
59 comments:
The best commentary on chowder comes from Melville in Moby Dick; a soliloquy on the stuff. It can be awfully tasty, but you have to know what you're doing to cook it well.
I vote for RI Clam Chowder as it used to be made at George's of Galilee, out on Pt. Judith where you get the Block Island boat. It's made with surf (skimmer) clams, not quahogs, and the broth is CLEAR. Out of this WORLD!
I like the recipe from "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book" by Fannie Merritt Farmer (I inherited my grandmother's 1922 copy. : ) I haven't felt like trying the Rhode Island version or the Connecticut version yet, but I will try the lobster version. Yum!
If clam chowder is the "preppiest" food, what other foods are considered "preppy"? I've heard of stuffed quahogs (sp)?, fried clam bellies and lobster rolls... but I'm curious what else is quintessentially New England.
"our chowder" as in your own home made? Perhaps you would share your recipe?
This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I'd rather give up my penny loafers than good calm chowder. I've had The Black Pearl's chowder a number of times. It's "wicked good" and best I've ever had...so far.
@TropicalSunbird - To quote Jud Hale, other quintessentially New England foods would include baked beans, codfish, lobsters, maple syrup, jonnycake and apple pie. "New Englanders are always arguing with each other and with outsiders as to the proper ingredients and/or correct preparation techniques."
@Zenas313 - Sadly no - it was from a local place. It was fair to middlin, as my father would say.
Clam chowder is my favorite! I have a probably Non-New England approved version that I make. Just an adaptation of many recipes to be my own. I did once serve it to a Vermonter and he liked it. Room for many kinds, except the red kind.
Muffy, please point to a stellar clam chowdah recipe. Also, have you ever been to Jasper White's Summer Shack for lobster?
Not sure if its the best, but my favorite is Johnny Ad's on Route 1 in old Saybrook, CT, with a close second of the Black Seal in Essex.
Don't gasp, but I don't like clam chowder....but I can eat my weight of those Olde Cape Cod Oyster Crackers.
Love clam chowder. One of my all-time favorite foods. Obliged to try it at every restaurant, and then to discuss it ad nauseam with companions. (Too much thyme? Over potato-d? Clams tough? Broth too thick? Broth too thin?) Can't say that I have a solid favorite maker, though. (My mom would probably insist that the best would be from a fish market and NOT a restaurant.)
I, too, love Rhode Island style--it is fresher and brinier and clammier than New England. But I can't say I prefer one to the other.
MuffyChef
Surely you jest with us. Preppiest food? Is this early April Fool's? True Prep women don't eat. In fact I can' recollect ever witnessing a Blond Head-Bander from a bastion like Boston or KenBunk actually chewing anything. You can't be a size 2 and eat.
If you wish to debate the preppiest adult beverage, we can talk. But food? Nutrition is vastly overrated.
Muffy,
by mentioning baked beans, you are opening up another preppy epicurean debate in my experience. I remember my father, his brother and his best friend arguing late into the night about the correct baked bean recipe ... and the bake-offs they occasionally had were appreciated by all.
Has the "preppy" moniker really devolved to the point where it can be applied to food? Apparently. The discussion of food is the antithesis of "preppy." A traditional "prep" views food as sustenance and avoids elevating it to a topic of conversation, let alone debate. After enduring a childhood of private school dining hall meals of dry meatloaf, chipped beef on toast, and anemic fish sticks, the "prep" should develop into an adult who is blissfully and willfully ignorant of common "foodie-ism."
A "preppy" kitchen and pantry contain few items of food. Open the refrigerator door and you will likely find a nearly empty jar of marmalade, two stalks of wilted celery, and a tiny square of cheddar left over from a cocktail party. The sliced Pepperidge Farm bread is in the freezer and there is a can of steel cut oats, a box of stale triscuits, and the crumbled remains of two tea biscuits in the cupboard. In the pantry you will find an unopened Christmas tin of cashews of dubious provenance, a box of good but not showy tea bags, and your reserve supply of scotch and gin.
I am revealing my shocking level of hypocrisy by commenting on a blog, an activity almost as un-preppy as writing one.
Black Pearl!
New England clam chowder is what is often called "comfort food" and foods in that category do "comfort" more than just the stomach.
Though an older generation ( my grandmother's and her mother's )of Manhattanites did make "MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER", it has died out; thankfully! My mother called that kind "garbage soup" ( due to all of the veggies )and only made and/or ate the New England kind.
For the usual snarkers on here, your comments ruin the posts and comment section! And adding insult to injury, promulgate ridiculous stereotypes.
Whenever I go back to maine, always find time to get a lobster. But usually the foods I most look forward to are steamers, fish chowder, and gifford's ice cream :)
I never really thought of the New England Clam Chowder as being "preppy". It's probably the soup of choice for most native New Englanders but when I think of food for Preps, I think of the menu at the old Locke-Obers near Beacon Hill. Beef Wellington. Schnitzel. Rib Eye. Lobster Savannah.
These days, it's about trendy fine dining. For a truly classic bowl of Chowder, it's best to drive up to Maine.
Melville:
“Queequeg,” said I, “do you think that we can make out a supper for us both on one clam?”
However, a warm savory steam from the kitchen served to belie the apparently cheerless prospect before us. But when that smoking chowder came in, the mystery was delightfully explained. Oh, sweet friends! hearken to me. It was made of small juicy clams, scarcely bigger than hazel nuts, mixed with pounded ship biscuit, and salted pork cut up into little flakes; the whole enriched with butter, and plentifully seasoned with pepper and salt.”
I feel bad living in here Kentucky. As far as clam chowder, I got here only one option, which is Red Robster. But, it tastes nice ^^.
Sorry for the wrong word. It's red lobster^^.
Muffy, sorry, I nominate the the ethereal liquid clam concoction. the Cherrystone Clam Pan Roast available forever at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central. The Cherrystones, like Harry Winston jewels, are carelessly tossed with dollops of butter on the simmering griddle behind the counter blessed with fresh cream, a dribble of worcester sauce and a spice or two I can't identify. Savor it with a half dozen iced cherrystones on the side before or after and clam craving may be satiated for a month at least. Not to forget the oyster crackers chomped even with the soggy toast in the chowder bowl..
Another Storm is in the forecast. This means more servings of Clam Chowder for people in New England and more Manhattan Chowder for people in Connecticut. :)
Hey Muffy,
Just a quick comment. To Anon (9:22) - While your support of pro-active book burning is interesting, you may also have to go back and burn all existing copies of Town and Country during its good years, the work of Slim Aarons, and all of those pesky John F. Kennedy pictures in your belief that preppy culture should not be documented or even talked about.
On a parallel note, I recently described Muffy's blog (which includes this wonderful and knowledgeable commenting community, of course) as a combination of Yankee, Town and County, and as someone else wrote, Peter Mayle. Thanks to all!
For the crusty old Preps at my former firm, the Chowder was something they rewarded themselves with after a long week. They were surprisingly frugal. They usually brown bagged Turkey sandwiches, fruits and drank tea in the late afternoon. But on Friday afternoons, they took slightly longer lunches with their clients or old friends from school. Their meal of choice, Clam Chowder.
It's ubiquitous around here the way Gumbo is in the Deep South but it seems more and more Preps are becoming Vegetarians especially the ladies. But if I had to ask the Preps what their ideal food is, my guess is it would be a tie between Oatmeal with dried fruits and PB&J with Apple slices.
Squeeze: WHOA! That sounds awesome! I'll be getting me to the GCT Oyster Bar to sample that this Saturday . . .
I think of Muffy's blog as a place where we can come to see, discuss, enjoy, reminisce, and even debate the evolution of New England culture as it happens. Because culture, you see, does not stand still. It is Muffy, you, me, and everybody else hereabouts. It is alive and happening now.
I enjoy a little Allspice and Tabasco, even Bell's Turkey Seasoning in the Comments section--Pablum is for babies, after all. A dry wit, esp. employed in laughing at ourselves, is part and parcel of New England.
Definitely the Black Pearl!
I can't say where we've had THE best clam chowder, but we've had a lot of great bowls of it. We have a delicious recipe for both clam chowder, and another of our favorites: lobster chowder. I guess that could be considered a preppy dish as well. I'm craving both now!!! Your pictures look delicious. --Holly in PA
I've always enjoyed thumbing through the WASP cookbook. :)
This gets off subject because I love clam chowder, but really, how great are the Ball canning jars? And fresh pressed apple cider?
I haven't had the chowdah at Cappys but their fried clam rolls are terrific. Where I live in Philadelphia the best place is the Sansom Street Oyster House and I have to say that I was recently stranded at an airport and had a bowl at Legal's Seafood that was quite good. The challenge with clam chowder once you leave New England is that it can be awful -- gloppy, pasty, over-floured, too creamy, etc. Sort of like fettucine alfredo which made "properly" can be divine but at most restaurants is inedible.
My grandparents passed along a family recipe for seafood chowder (fish, lobster, clams, and just the right amount of salt pork). They also taught her how to pick the best fresh fish at the fish markets. My wife made the seafood chowder at Christmas and New Years for years; my oldest daughter continues to make it now.
The Barnacle in Marblehead, MA had great clam chowder and lobster rolls in the 70s and 80s.
It was a "must" stop whenever we visited family.
It seems to me that there are a dozen or more place in New England that continue to serve great clam chowder and/or lobster rolls.
If I had to choose I would vote for lobster rolls as the #1 New England food with clam chowder as a close second.
I agree that Legal's chowder is quite good.
@Muffy: I'd add Indian Pudding to the list of classics -- can be hard to find these days.
On chowders, my purely subjective opinion:
Bronze: Black Pearl
Silver: Captain Parker's, West Yarmouth
Gold: Straight Wharf Fish Store, Nantucket (best enjoyed after a hard day on the water)
Legal's is superb but I try to avoid chain restaurants whenever possible. Jasper White whips a good bowl of Chowder but if you're just looking for Fried Clams, you can't beat Woodman's in Essex. If you're a fan of "The Perfect Storm" and you happen to be in the North Shore, be forewarned that the establishment mentioned in the book are not too accommodating for tourists. Lobster Rolls are all the rage during the Summer months in Maine but if you want to be adventurous and experience authentic living, do a Lobster Boil right on the rocky shore.
For a Preppy desert, go with Apple Crisp.
While clam chowder is excellent, my evidence-based vote is for roast beef. Hot for dinner, cold in sandwiches, and then reheated the following night. A moniker one might earn here in New England is that of "Cold Roast Beef Yankee", a term neither insulting nor endearing. It was a staple in the prep schools and houses for generations and still remains on club tables prepared exactly as I described above. If you base "preppiness" off of the food popular at prep schools today, I suppose spaghetti and meatballs would win.
Chowder is the best (especially on the Chatham fish pier), but lobster rolls seem preppier. They are put together, with a well-placed but understated hint of color.
I love New England Clam Chowder with oyster crackers. It wasn't until we moved to Mystic, CT that I tried RI Clam Chowder which is wonderful too. I don't prefer one over the other. Unfortunately, we moved away to the Bay Area where we really didn't have the luxury of choice. And we have since relocated to Texas, so I can forget about it altogether. *sigh* I miss living out East. Lovely pictures as always.
I'd venture to guess that you are opening up another Pandora's box, Muffy, by posing the question of what is the preppiest food. What came to my mind immediately was a BLT (heavy on the Hellmann's) on white toast (preferably Pepperidge Farm from Fairfield, CT). You naughty girl, Muffy.
I won't argue which is better, NE or Manhattan because I like both and at home, make only Manhattan (mainly because I think I would fare poorly with homemade NE Chowder). That said, I think the photo of the NE Chowder convinced me immediately that this soup was thick enough that the spoon would stand up in it unaided. Once again, great product photography, Muffy! It's so good, I wanted a bowl!
I am not so sure I would agree that the chowder from the Black Pearl in Newpoer is the best. I've had it and had what I thought was better elsewhere.
A true prep refrigerator would not be empty--gasp!
Tomato juice and celery for bloody marys. Limes and tonic for G&Ts. Olives and cherries for martinis and manhattans.
Half and Half (hallph and hallph per my Bostonian grandmother) for a brandy alexander.
Oh and cheese for the cheese and cracker blotters to sop up all the booze!
THAT is how a preppy refig should be stocked!
Forgot to mention in George Howe Colt's book The Big House he made several references to Cold Roast Beef Bostonians.
I think this qualifies as the preppiest food.
Bob - "The Big House" is one of my favourite books - I read it each spring before we plan the trip up north to open the cottage. Highly recommend it to all.
I love the bowl. Is that Blue Italian by Spode?
So pretty.
The Big House is a wonderful beach read. And it's been mentioned, but Bob forgot the Hellman's. Everyone has Hellman's right? And I prefer a beer with my chowder. One of the few times I drink beer.
I learned to make a wicked clam chow-dah in Maine.
I think I could live on it.
pve
Chowders aren't any different from a Bisque which is what I serve. Lobster is my favorite but my husband likes clams so I keep Progresso's New England Clam Chowder in the pantry at all times. I know it's cheating but I dislike cooking.
@anonymous 9:22....so true! I always remember the horror of going to my aunt and uncle's house for brunch and being served the same creamed chipped beef on toast we endured in the refectory. Oh, and welsh rarebit was another school staple. I can't imagine they still serve these dishes.
Wimpys in Osterville, MA is the best, IMO.
Muffy,
I'm a cohoag chowder man from way back! always got a great bowl of it in the New Bedford, Ma area. The chowder should have more fluid milky broth, not the thick heavy stuff! Must have loads of chunky potatoes and loads of onions and cohaogs in every spoon full! I had a southern variation in Williamsburg, VA area at a seafood place named Baritt's off the main drag in the historical district, It had a smoky flavor to it with corn and bacon add to traditional NE chowder! Delicious!
"There is no greater love than the love of food".
Although I only live 23 miles west of Philadelphia I have yet to try The Oyster House recommended by Sarte. In this area it's hard to find what I would call a true "shore dinner": Clam chowda, lobsta, steamas, an ear of corn and some potatos. The Oyster House shows such a dinner on their online menu. I can hardly wait to try it. It's a shorter drive than Southwest Harbor.
Grand Central Oyster Bar in Manhattan anyone?
I am still laughing as I write this! I have to agree with the proposal to outlaw any so-called clam chowders made with tomatoes!
Oh, yeah! I do love me a good clam chowder. I love its humble roots and satisfying heartiness as a meal. And yes the oyster crackers only add to the appeal.
Potatoes are important ingredient, at least in our family, some of whom are from potato farming country, and remember spring as rock-picking season.
@Anonymous 7:08 - I have been trying to figure out who made it. I have three of them and they are obviously fairly old, but all it says on the back, which is barely readable, is Country Scenes England.
My personal favorite chowder is the New England clam chowder served in a bread bowl by a vendor at the Head of the Charles.
Also, aren't there three varieties of clam chowder: New England, Rhode Island, and Manhattan? New England is creamy, RI is milky, and Manhattan includes tomatoes.
This Food Lab piece from Serious Eats on chowder is great.
http://bit.ly/YYHMet
@Anonymous 8:14 A.M.: Welsh Rarebit! Goodness. I forgot about that particular dish and suspect it is a memory I wish to leave behind. I highly doubt many people serve Welsh Rarebit anymore. Like everyone I knew as a child, our meals were dull, modest in portion size, and didn't inspire any comment. If my family reflected a stereotype, we certainly were in good company. This blog is thoroughly enjoyable, especially when I read it through the eyes of my very WASPy parents. Talk of food, money or self was strongly discouraged. They would frown on any form of self-identification, especially something as accurate as "WASP." They were not unfeeling or cold, but very careful as to manners in all forms. My mother's only instruction in cooking was a home economics course she was required to take at Radcliffe, the sort of course that taught you how to cook a limited repertoire of meals that would include things like roast beef and creamed chipped beef on toast. In those days it wasn't uncommon to have a cook, or at least a housekeeper who would also make supper a few nights a week or for dinner parties. There is no question that my parents enjoyed a good bowl of chowder or a more adventurous meal in a restaurant, but they just didn't talk about food.
I apologize to those who missed the deliberate irony in my earlier comment, though I must admit that my kitchen inventory is accurate and not uncommon among certain New Englanders. It is never wise to ignore the WASP principle that the best sort of opinion is the one left unsaid.
Sincerely, "Anonymous 9:22"
In the South, the preppy ladies done on chicken salad croissants.
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